We had to leave our friends on Showa and Lola from Lewisporte/LYC in idyllic Notre Dame Bay, our plan was to sail north, up Newfoundland’s Great Northern Peninsula to Labrador.
We’ve covered some water and visited some ports since departing from the “flotilla”
La Scie, Great Harbour Deep, Bide Arm, St. Anthony, Noddy Bay, Henley Harbour, Battle Harbour
It’s been a challenge and fun too – a bit lonely at first after the social scene and company of LYC, but it’s so nice to be back in Battle Harbour. Nice food in their new dock side restaurant and Gary Green’s storytelling in the loft last night was accompanied by Ruth’s wonderful hooked wall hangings.
Its 3 years to the day that we were here in 2014, on our way from Bay of Islands/Corner Brook sailing up The Straight of Belle Isle, leaving Cape Norman to starboard, Red Bay, Battle Hrb. and down to Notre Dame/Lewisporte. We missed rounding Cape Bauld that year, opting to exit by the tickle at Quirpoon.
This season a quiet passage around Cape St. John took us to La Scie, where Roger and Joanne from LYC surprised us with a visit, they were making there way round to Isle aux Morts. From there the solitude of Great Harbour Deep on Great Northern Peninsula provided our harbour out alone at anchor,
And then 30 knots entering Canada Bay to hide up Bide Arm.
Wonderful small town there of the same name, the gracious locals helped us tie to their fish wharf then a kind woman brought Sunday supper to the boat, thinking we looked hungry. Lots of capelin and whales and dolphins up the arm as we left.
After re-provisioning we left St. Anthony,
With a light SW behind us, which had become 20 knots by the time we reached Cape Bauld, Newfoundland’s North East Cape. As that brisk cool-heavy air meets the confluence of tide and currents at the cape it kicks up some interesting waves, almost a rip tide. A humpback swam under the boat to add to the excitement. We paralleled the tall/black cliffs of Cape Bauld to Noddy Bay where it was a challenge to anchor, our CQR found mud only after 3 tries.
Wonderful crossing of the Straight of Belle Isle – wind beside us, flat seas our AIS reporting only one freighter outbound on the west lanes, we did not pass closely.
Chateau Bay surrounded by Castle Islands fantastic black basalt pipes hides Henley Harbour’s wee, lonely and now abandoned settlement.
Behind the town on Barrier Point is the remains of a 1766 English Fort, the star shaped outline still clearly visible with remnants of a stone block house in its centre.
After a friendly early morning visit from a Fish and Wildlife cutter we attempted to depart Henley via American Tickle, only to get be-fuddled by the fog and have to stop and re-think our exit. With thick fog shrouding it a huge berg popped out at us, right on the bow as we had our soup/lunch motor sailing to Battle.
Jayne steered us in through the tickle,
To find a welcoming dock, hot showers and evening of good food, cod with cod, lively conversation and later storytelling in “The Loft”
Next we’re on to Mary’s Harbour, just 10 miles away, we need a few things, then to continue on our way up the beautiful Labrador coast.
What a wonderful adventure! I love to hear about your trip as it progresses. A vicarious thrill – while at my desk where my biggest concern is whether the AC is going to keep my computer cool enough to finish the next issue.
Hi Johanna – can’t imagine what AC even is up here, enjoy your summer.
Mike
Glad you enjoyed the post, we’ve been lazy and just updating our Facebook page, good wifi here at Battle. May stay today, Tuesday too, I’ll try call you if we do, apparently we can call through wifi. Love to mom?
your post is wonderful – mom and i love the pictures and your writing is always good. 30 knots entering bide arm and riptide with a humpback swimming under your boat after leaving st. anthony! anchoring in mud at noddy harbour must have been a challenge – good thing the wind didn’t come up. fog before you saw the iceberg – great sailing – both of you. dad would be very proud.