Jun 212013
 

We plan to set sail on Canada Day, 1-July-2013, from our home in Cobourg on Lake Ontario, for The Bay Of Islands on Newfoundlands West Coast.

Following our 2006 route down the St Lawrence to Montreal, Quebec City and Tadoussac. We’ll then continue along the rivers north shore to Baie-Comeau, Sept-Iles and Mingan, crossing to Newfoundland on an overnight sail from Natashquan. It’s more or less 1400 miles of sailing and we have 60 days to reach Bay of Islands. Phantasia our Niagara 35 sloop will be hauled out and stored there  for the winter, then we’ll continue on next summer to circumnavigate Newfoundland.

Interesting to note the contemporary chart for Bay of Islands, below, is based on a British Admiralty Chart surveyed 1880-81. Also some interesting place names like “Blow me down”

Chart New

Chart New

We’ve finally departed for Newfoundland

Only got as far as Kerr Bay last night and Collins Bay today where we are going to purchase from Marine Outfitters, and install, 4 brand new Trojan T145 6 volt deep cycle batteries. Sadly our now 13 year old Surettes with 38000 hours on them are giving us trouble – they seem to drain very quickly and over the weekend over charged and boiled dry – the battery temperature hitting 107 F ! From what I’ve been able to gather this may be a symptom of a bad cell or cells. Couldn’t have picked a better place to do the replacement, Dave Wilby from Marine Outfitters is going to deliver the new Trojans right to the dock here in Collins Bay.

 

St Lawrence Seaway – Montreal – Longueuil

Jayne feeding the ducks at Real Bouvier Marina - Longueuil, Quebec

Jayne feeding the ducks at Real Bouvier Marina – Longueuil, Quebec.

Battled our way down the Seaway with a few minor mishaps and some delays to enjoy a couple of wonderful relaxing days on the South Shore, at Longeuil, across the river from Old Montreal. Longueil is a great stop – easy access to shops and restaurants – found the best Charcuterie imaginable. Explored the quite streets lined with tall trees and beautiful classic homes taking some time to un-wind after the hectic trip down the river.

Watch some of the action, Eisenhower Lock, “entering” Old Montreal, and then changing our mind to Longeuil.

Sailing Into Quebec City

The 70 plus mile trip down the river from Sorel to Quebec went smoothly – although by late in the day we weren’t sure we would make it into Bassin Louise before the 18 foot tide began to flood. We just slipped into the city in the late afternoon, through the lock that guards Basin Louise and got docked. Enjoyed a latish supper at the Marina’s “Riviera” patio, with the view of old Quebec beyond. Starting at 10 PM there is a fantastic Norman McLaren light and sound show projected on the grain elevators adjacent to the marina, a magical end to this very long day. Tomorrow the Vieux Port Farmers market and walking the winding streets, enjoying the fantastic old world architecture of Vieux Quebec.

View from the Riviera

View from the Riviera

Wandering the streets of Vieux Quebec

Wandering the streets of Vieux Quebec

 

 

New watercolours

While we’re at anchorage I usually take some time to do a few paintings. I’ve uploaded a few (in the Watercolours section) from yesterday done at our anchorage in the Sorel Islands.

looking down river.Sorel Islands.sm

Quebec City to Cap a l’Aigle – with some new watercolours

I made a number of new paintings during our long day yesterday. Left Quebec City around 9:00 and got into Cap a l’Aigle (the eagle) around 7:30. Mostly a day of motoring but with a light SW so we were able to do some wing-0n-wing for a couple of hours. Then the wind died and switched to SE…on the nose.

Top speed we saw was 12kn, our usual top being about 7kn…the rest being tide and current. However by the time we got close to Cap l’Aigle the tide had turned and we were making between 3 and 4kn over the ground.

Wind continues to be SE, forecast is for 10-15 but a couple heading downriver went out and returned saying that it was 20-25 in the river. Wind against current plus tide = rough ride. I’m voting to wait to go to Tadoussac tomorrow.

Ile d'Orleans.sm

looking toward south shore.sm

Cap Tourmente.sm

Cap Gribane.sm

Belugas

Anse St Jean – LAT 48 Deg 14″ LNG 70 Deg 10″

Sailing from Cap a l’aigle into the Saguenay St Lawrence Marine Park we encountered thick fog passing the Prince Light, making for a few tense moments. We had to wait for the flooding tide at 5:30 PM to enter and once we got a mile up into the Saguenay River the fog departed and we were engulfed in a pod of beluga whales. By 10:00 pm, 2200 hrs, we’d sailed 27 miles up to Anse St. Jean, tying up at their welcoming club Nautique. A lovely town, complete with covered bridge and spring water gushing from a tap in the middle of town. We are just about to sail another 6-7 miles up the river to Baie Etirnite where we’ll spend the night on a mooring. Planning to exit the Saguenay tomorrow and perhaps stop at Bergeronne and then cross to the south shore at Parc du Bic.

Watercolours – Saguenay River

I’ve updated the watercolours page so it is now with the slideshow and thumbnails styling. New paintings added from Quebec City to Tadoussac and up the Saguenay Fiord. Here’s a couple of samples.

Cap Trinité & Égalité

Baie d'Éternité

Marina Rimouski

We crossed the St Lawrence from Grande Bergeronne to Rimouski today, departed at 1130 on the rising tide with a 15 knot wind behind, sun and blue sky. Our first full day sailing since leaving Cobourg. Marina Rimouski is a wonderful spot, an interesting mix of sail and working fishing boats. We had dinner at the marinas restaurant with our new friend Kurt, he has sailed single handed here all the way from Minnesota! On to Matane, perhaps tomorrow or we’ll take a day off to explore Rimouski.

Just docked at Marina Rimouski

Just docked at Marina Rimouski

View out to the docks - they have an excellent restaurant

View out to the docks – they have an excellent restaurant

 

 

 

North Shore paintings

We’ve been out of wireless reach for almost a week but now a couple of days in Havre Sainte Pierre…for water, charge batteries, groceries and socializing.
First paintings are from approaching Sept Iles when we crossed back to north side of the St Lawrence. A day there and then a long motor sail to the village of Mingan in beautiful weather. We had thought of stopping part way but glad we didn’t because went wind east (on the nose) and very “maritime”. Spent 3 days in rain/fog on mooring at Ile Quary but went ashore every day and walked the entire perimeter. Last 3 paintings are ones done between bouts of rain…carried whole kit wrapped in plastic.

Approaching Sept Iles2

approaching Sept Iles1

Sky Water

On Ile Quary3

On Ile Quary2

On Ile Quary1

Greetings From The Mingan Archipelago

We are spending two days docked in Havre St Pierre, the largest Harbour in Mingan, exploring the town and doing some provisioning. We sailed 100 miles from Sept Isle to Mingan Town at the mouth of the mighty Mingan River on July 28th, taking about 15-16 hours to complete that leg in wonderfully calm and sunny conditions. The Village of Longue Pointe De Mingan sits near the mouth of the river.

The Village of Longue-Pointe-De-Mingan

The Village of Longue-Pointe-De-Mingan

From the anchorage at Mingan town we sailed about 10 miles east and took a Parks Canada mooring at Isle Quarry for three days, hiking first 1.5 km, then 4 km and finally 10km on the third day, around the western end of the island, I have a terrible blister on my left heal to prove it. Crossing the islands interior you cross a spruce bog intricate with tiny lichens, mosses and carnivorous plants, these amazing monoliths sit on the south shore.

The Monoliths at Anse De Erosion, Isle Quarry Mingan

The Monoliths at Anse De Erosion, Isle Quarry Mingan

After a great sail out past Isle Niapiskau to Isle Fantome and Isle Firmin we entered Havre St Pierre accompanied by a whale and several dolphins. Seeing as Havre St Pierre is “downtown” Mingan we treated ourselves to dinner out. Tomorrow the plan is to sail east to Isle St. Genevieve and from there to Baie Johan Beetz, Natashquan and then Coacoachou, from where we’ll cross 100 miles to Bay of Islands, Newfoundland. Bon Apetite !

Mike at the Prominade, Havre St Pierre

Mike at the Prominade, Havre St Pierre

Bonjour From Baie Johan Beetz

We sailed from Havre St Pierre on Sunday to the eastern archipelago and from there to the small community of Baie Johan Beetz, at the mouth of the Piashti river.

Tomorrow we’ll sail 45 miles further east to Natashquan and from there we’ll cross the Esquiman Channel to Bay of Islands NFL.

Having a great time, this area is very rugged but quite beautiful. We have salmon trout from the local depanneur for dinner.

The boat is backed into the inside of the fishing boat pier and so well protected from the wind the wind generator won’t turn.

Phanty at the fishing boat pier

Bye for now, m&j

Well Blow Me Down – We’re In Newfoundland !

The North Coast of Quebec is a beautiful rugged place, rocky, lonely and wind swept. In Natashquan Harbour we hunted out a spot to anchor in behind some small bare islands, out of the wind and waves. It turned out to be the perfect spot to shelter from southerly winds. As the sun set we enjoyed views of the stark, low, red granite hills, stunted trees and fishing boats lined up at the dock across the bay.

Little Red House

Little Red House

View from Havre Canadien Anchorage

View from Havre Canadien Anchorage

We wanted to go ashore and explore the town, there is an interesting cultural centre that re-creates a supply store of yesteryear. The mouth of the Natashquan River is near by and leading to it are mile after mile of sand and pounding surf. With a favorable forecast of light south east to south winds for the next 24 – 48 hours, we thought it wise to depart immediately, on the 175 sail across the Esquiman Channel to Newfoundland. The weather here can turn into a bear, as we would find out.

Mike & Jayne Far Away At Sea

Mike & Jayne Far Away At Sea

With the wind blowing a perfect close reach and “pulpo” our autopilot happily steering through the long, cloudy day and into the long moonless night we had time to relax. We took turns sleeping and reading inside the boat, when not keeping watch. Did not see another craft once away from the Jacques Cartier shipping lanes. From far out at sea you get glimpses of the towering mountains that line Newfoundland’s west coast, and then suddenly we were there, the entrance to Bay of Islands.

Approaching The Bay of Islands Newfoundland

Approaching The Bay of Islands Newfoundland

Detail of Guernsey Island

Detail of Guernsey Island

Once inside the bay it’s just a few miles to Woods Island Harbour, reported to be one Newfoundland’s best anchorages. We moored Phantasia and collapsed into much needed sleep and rest for 24 hours, then moved onto the nearby Bay Of Islands Yacht Club, out station dock, to explore the island. The light SE – South winds we crossed in were replaced by first strong SE then very strong SW winds of 45 knots, that kept us happily sheltered in the harbour for 2 days. We are now at the Bay of Islands Yacht Club 3 miles from downtown Corner Brook and contemplating a trip out to Goose Arm, in the Bay of Islands for a few days.

Jayne Painting 2000 Foot "Blow Me Down" Mountain

Jayne Painting 2000 Foot “Blow Me Down” Mountain

The waves built and built until it became impossible to make the narrow exit from Woods Island safely

Waves Building On Puffin Island

Waves Building On Puffin Island

Looking down Humber Arm towards Corner Brook with “Blow Me Down” in the background

The View From Woods Island

The View From Woods Island

A 2 minute look at the crossing and entrance to the Bay of Islands, complete with whales !

Blown away by Blow Me Down

We arrived Friday morning after a wonderful 28 hours sail, sun rising over the incredible entrance to Bay of Islands, NFLD and greeted by large fin whale and her calf…here’s some first impressions. So incredibly different to Cote Nord, only 175 miles away!

 

Governors Island

 

Blow Me Down 2

Woods Island Hbr

Woods Island Harbour – Departure

Once the wind and waves had begun to subside we had to depart idyllic Woods Island Harbour for Corner Brook. A yacht from BOIYC, Whisper, with Byron and family aboard, caught us as we powered out of the narrow entrance, and set the stay sail for the 12 mile run down to Pleasant Cove, the Bay of Islands Yacht Club main station. We had our Yanmar 3JH2E revved up to 3000 RPM, the max. Sailing under only jib and stay sail down Humber Arm we saw speeds of 7.5 and even 8 knots, a new record for Phanty.

Woods Island Departure 1

Woods Island Departure 1

Woods Island Departure 2

Woods Island Departure 2

 

 

Woods Island Departure 3

Woods Island Departure 3

Woods Island Departure 4

Woods Island Departure 4

 

Woods Island Departure 5

Woods Island Departure 5

Woods Island Departure 6

Woods Island Departure 6

Thanks Whisper for the great pics !

Woods Island Harbour – Departure

Our summer adventure is almost complete, Phanty sits ashore as we build a cradle and prepare for the long winter ahead. Thanks Keith and everyone a Bay of Islands Yacht Club for your expert assistance with many difficult tasks as well as your excellent hospitality.

Lark Harbour

After charging up our batteries and supplies in Corner Brook we took 10 days to explore the Bay of Islands, a fantastic day sailing in light off wind conditions brought us 30 miles to Goose Arm and it’s North West Cove anchorage.

The cove I think could rightly be called a hurricane hole, thick black mud covers the bottom and bobbing at anchor we listened to forecasts of 30 knots for locations only miles away. Look for the tiny white object in the lower right, that’s Phanty.

We must have hiked 30 km over the 6 days we were anchored in Goose Arm, climbed then descended 1000 meters into the spruce, balsam fir, tamarack and birch covered hills. At the head of the arm a fast flowing, clear and cool river filled with salmon and trout empties.

From Goose we sailed back out to the Bay of Islands, passing west of Woods Islands, Vesuvius and Man of War shoals, with 25 knots on the starboard beam to enter beautiful Lark Harbour. Anchoring in the back harbour, although not recommended, due to possibly strong south westerly and katabatic winds, worked out fine, we laid out both our CQR 45 then CQR 35, on 200 feet of chain, but the wind never got above 10-15 knots.

From there it’s a short trip ashore to explore the town, lunch at Marlaine’s “Tide Watcher Cafe” can’t be missed as well as hiking in “Blow Me Down” Provincal Park across the bay. We spent a final day walking 3 km across to Little Port to admire there rows of bright orange Little Port Dories.

Jayne stopped to paint a view of the bog and cliffs and made a fine new friend in Mr Sheppard who regaled us with a tale of ghost dories at dawn and how in the old days the snow banks were so high you could touch the power lines and ice flows 30 feet thick would trap ships trying to enter Corner Brook for weeks at a time. He said he had fished for 40 years and hated every minute of it.

We wished him gales of wind and lots of snow before departing for a final sail down Humber Arm and back to The Bay Of Islands Yacht Club, which we’ve now joined as full members.

  4 Responses to “Newfoundland Circle – Part 1”

  1. good work!

  2. this sounds like a wonderful plan :-). i love the video. it’s interesting to see that the chart for the bay of islands is based on another from the 1880’s. well, “blow me down”! hope all the preparation for the trip goes easily and you get off to a sailing start with fair winds and following seas. xoxo

  3. i also love the short video you made of the whole downeast circle i just saw – it’s excellent!

  4. We definitely want to see Newfoundland. Would be nice to hook up sometime over the next year! Xoxoxo MJ

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