In August of 2007 we returned to Gaspe by train, with plans to sail to Les Îles de la Madeleine, a 350 nautical mile round trip out into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The blue line on the chart below.
From the yard over looking Gaspé Bay we cleaned, painted and waxed then launched Phantasia.
The town of Gaspe is handy to the marina and excellent for provisioning. It’s just a short walk across the bridge spanning the York River.
After a spectacular “red sky at night”, we’ll depart in the morning.
We are bound 30 nm to Fox River, a shakedown cruise to make sure the boats systems are ok. Fox River is an import commercial fishing harbour in the Gaspe and also has an excellent new marina for pleasure craft. Club Nautique Forillon is about to have their official opening celebrations, the whole town is invited.
Tomorrow we sail towards Rock Perce, Bonaventure Island and l’Anse-a-Beaufils. With dolphins playing in Phantasia’s bow wave and Gannets diving from a stormy sky we set out.
Leaving Phantasia at nearby Beaufils we spoil our selves with a boat tour to Bonaventure Island, it’s about 5 km offshore from the town of Perce.
Bonaventure Island Tour
The Gannets are extremely entertaining, visiting their colony on Bonaventure is a bit like I imagine the Galapagos to be. It takes about 60 minutes to walk back from the bird colony, everyone stops to cool their feet!
Nearing the tour boat dock we get another view of the rock.
Perce town has interesting shops and some excellent restaurants.
Back at l’Anse-a-Beaufils we spend the rest of the day relaxing.
And then set out on the 140 nautical mile trip to Les Iles de la Madeleine.
We put the lee clothes in Phantasia’s saloon up in case it gets rough. It’ll take about 24 hours to get to the Madeleines.
As we neared the islands in the wee hours of the morning the GPS decided to quit! Thankfully it came back to life as the sun came up and before the approach to Entrance Island. We plan to spend a night at anchor in Havre Amherst across from the town of La Grave.
Havre Aubert and La Grave
It’s a fantastic spot! the sky so clear and bright and the salt air refreshing.
With an impending forecast for 30 knots of wind we move onto the dock at La Grave. We are one of only a few visitors from outside the islands. There is a colourful array of fishing boats converted into cruisers.
We spend a day exploring the dunes, bird watching and enjoying the sun. Although it looks like a long way the hike up to Bute de la Croix takes only a few minutes, the 360 view is incredible.
Cap aux Meules, main village of Iles de la Madeleine
We move across the bay 8 miles to Cap Aux Meules, it’s the largest town in the Madeleines, and take a dock at the marina among the well kept lobster fleet. From the marina its just a few blocks up to town, there is a superb bakery and a well stocked chandlery, it helps to know some basic French.
Across from the marina the weekly cruise ship from Montreal arrives next to the ferry from Souris on Prince Edward Island. The pier is a favorite spot to gather and socialize while fishing for mackarel. A 130 foot motor yacht arrives and the whole town comes down to inspect it.
It’s a hard place to say goodbye to but we must return to Gaspe. Sailing back across the Gulf de Madeleine we’re treated to a nice gale!
We over night in Anse a Beaufils and the following day finds us rounding Rock Perce under spinnaker.
A fair wind blows us all the way into Gaspe Bay to anchor a final night.
Tomorrow we haul out and prepare the boat for her long winter nap.