This is the year, 2019, we would close our circumnavigation of Newfoundland that we begun on Phantasia in 2013.
Departing from Cobourg on Lake Ontario we sailed east through our familiar cruising grounds of eastern Lake Ontario to the 1000 Islands, and then made our third transit of the St Lawrence Seaway. It seemed more difficult than our two previous trips, perhaps we’re just getting older. It’s still great fun to break free from the lakes and find your self anchoring near downtown Montreal and then running the rapids to Quebec City.
Once clear of the lock at Quebec City’s Basin Louise it’s clear sailing. Under spinnaker we’d visit Tadoussac in the company of belugas, humpback and minke whales then cross to Bic, Rimouski, Matane and St Anne Des Monts on the St Lawrence south shore.
The St Lawrence current, and summer westerlies would move us quickly from Riviere au Renard into Gaspe, where we stopped to provision and enjoy the local colour. Our 220 nautical miles crossing of the Gulf of Madeleine to Port Aux Basques Newfoundland proved to be challenging, as we entered Cabot Strait followed by squall after squall.
Newfoundland’s South Coast is sparsely populated and extends east from Port Aux Basques to Cape Race, steep coastal cliffs are punctuated by deep inlets, lined with creeks and rivers. We planned to visit as many of it’s famous harbours as we could. Isle A Morts, Garia Bay, Rose Blanche, Grand Bruit, Cinq Cerf, Burgeo, Grey River, Francois and Hare Bay.
From Hare Bay we crossed to St Pierre, France to enjoy French food, wine and culture before sailing back to beautiful Little St Lawrence Harbour on Newfoundland’s Burin Peninsula .
We tied up with the fishing fleet in St Brides Harbour on the Avalon Peninsula to investigate rugged Cape St Mary, and the sea bird colony there. Rounding Cape Race at the south east corner of Newfoundland, in dense fog, we hurry up to Fermeuse then into St John’s just ahead of hurricane Dorian.
After riding out the storm at Royal Newfoundland Yacht Club in Conception Bay we’d visit Bay de Verde, Bonavista, Lumsden, Seldom, Change & Exploits Islands before bringing the boat into welcoming Lewisporte Marina to haulout for the winter of 2019/2020.
In the upcoming 2021 (due to Newfoundland’s Covid 19 lock down we’re not sailing this year) season we may sail Loon’s Lace across the Atlantic, that’s the plan, we’ll have to see if we can get organized and make it happen.
And we will be doing several days of “Sailing Newfoundland’s South Coast” presentations at the 2020 Toronto Boat Show. As soon as we have the schedule we’ll publish it here, hope to see you there !
It will be Phantasia’s 40th birthday in 2018 and to celebrate we’re giving her 3 weeks in the “spa” here at Lewisporte Marina this fall. We’ve bounced her off every dock between Little Current and New York City so she certainly has earned it.
First there is a complete disgorging of 17 seasons gear (we became her third owners in 2000), stuff and what is this thing from below decks and cleansing every nook and cranny, hot simple green followed by a light bleach rub down. After that it’s deck sanding, course (80) grit, thorough vacuuming, deck wipe down and taping off the Awl grip.
Then we roll on new non-skid decking. We’ve decided to go with Kiwigrip, white: primer, main coat then touch ups, we think its looking fantastic, after 17 seasons of hard sailing (and core repairs) this needed doing.
We’ve had persistent, mysterious leaks, both port and starboard, one over the galley and one over the head, for many seasons. After removing, re-bedding and re-installing everything on the coach roof and side decks, the leaks kept leaking, this years fix is to gently pry off the wooden “eyebrows”. Strips of 12 feet by 1″ by 5/8″ teak added just below the turn of the cabin top as decoration. A dozen screws in each, at least 2 of which were leaking. We heat-gunned them for several days then gently broke them off, unfortunately they had been installed with 5200 which just would not let go. Her new “eyebrows” will be coffee tinted Kiwigrip rolled on with a smooth foam roller, cockpit seats will be the same coffee colour.
Next comes the wax – Jean & Lisa of Coast Yacht Services buffed Phanty’s top sides to a gleaming, mirror finish, visitors to the shop thought we’d painted the hull not the deck!
Also while in the shop, it’s a very reasonable 35$ per day, we’re going to repair a piece of the galley floor and have already replaced a galley portlight as well as rebedded the hatch lens over the head…. and sanded the grab rails… and…
Maybe by next Tuesday we’ll be out of the shop and putting Phanty away for a long winter nap.
If you want to sail the Newfoundland and Labrador coast, in safety and comfort (no slipping on deck and no leaks below) all these and more tasks must be crossed off the list.
A sunny day in south/central Labrador is something of intense beauty, the sky seems so clear you’re looking into a lost world – if it wasn’t for the buzzing of helicopters to and from the small airport across the bay. We’ve had an excellent “sail” up the coast from Notre Dame, St Anthony, Mary’s Harbour, although to be honest a lot of “motor sailing” has taken place. But that’s to be expected when you’re new to a coast as ruggged as Labrador’s. At any rate hurricane Gert spawned of the Carolina coast has churned up an immense area of the North Atlantic so we’ve stayed put here in Cartwright for a few days. It’s a rugged little town with friendly people so what could be nicer, at the moment we’re securely tied to the French yacht Taravana beside a few fishing boats. Huge transformers are being unloaded on the main dock, brought across from England and bound for one of the immense hydroelectric projects here in Labrador. There is a fish plant who will loan laundry and showers, a few stores, one with a bakery, fuel and water and a lovely sense of freedom – reminds me of the BC coast back in the 70’s, before it became so exclusive.
We sail back south Saturday: Grady Harbour, Black Tickle, Hawke Harbour, Lords Arm, Occasional and back to Mary’s Harbour then St Anthony – something like that, have to see how the weather is.
We had to leave our friends on Showa and Lola from Lewisporte/LYC in idyllic Notre Dame Bay, our plan was to sail north, up Newfoundland’s Great Northern Peninsula to Labrador.
We’ve covered some water and visited some ports since departing from the “flotilla”
La Scie, Great Harbour Deep, Bide Arm, St. Anthony, Noddy Bay, Henley Harbour, Battle Harbour
It’s been a challenge and fun too – a bit lonely at first after the social scene and company of LYC, but it’s so nice to be back in Battle Harbour. Nice food in their new dock side restaurant and Gary Green’s storytelling in the loft last night was accompanied by Ruth’s wonderful hooked wall hangings.
Its 3 years to the day that we were here in 2014, on our way from Bay of Islands/Corner Brook sailing up The Straight of Belle Isle, leaving Cape Norman to starboard, Red Bay, Battle Hrb. and down to Notre Dame/Lewisporte. We missed rounding Cape Bauld that year, opting to exit by the tickle at Quirpoon.
This season a quiet passage around Cape St. John took us to La Scie, where Roger and Joanne from LYC surprised us with a visit, they were making there way round to Isle aux Morts. From there the solitude of Great Harbour Deep on Great Northern Peninsula provided our harbour out alone at anchor,
And then 30 knots entering Canada Bay to hide up Bide Arm.
Wonderful small town there of the same name, the gracious locals helped us tie to their fish wharf then a kind woman brought Sunday supper to the boat, thinking we looked hungry. Lots of capelin and whales and dolphins up the arm as we left.
After re-provisioning we left St. Anthony,
With a light SW behind us, which had become 20 knots by the time we reached Cape Bauld, Newfoundland’s North East Cape. As that brisk cool-heavy air meets the confluence of tide and currents at the cape it kicks up some interesting waves, almost a rip tide. A humpback swam under the boat to add to the excitement. We paralleled the tall/black cliffs of Cape Bauld to Noddy Bay where it was a challenge to anchor, our CQR found mud only after 3 tries.
Wonderful crossing of the Straight of Belle Isle – wind beside us, flat seas our AIS reporting only one freighter outbound on the west lanes, we did not pass closely.
Chateau Bay surrounded by Castle Islands fantastic black basalt pipes hides Henley Harbour’s wee, lonely and now abandoned settlement.
Behind the town on Barrier Point is the remains of a 1766 English Fort, the star shaped outline still clearly visible with remnants of a stone block house in its centre.
After a friendly early morning visit from a Fish and Wildlife cutter we attempted to depart Henley via American Tickle, only to get be-fuddled by the fog and have to stop and re-think our exit. With thick fog shrouding it a huge berg popped out at us, right on the bow as we had our soup/lunch motor sailing to Battle.
Jayne steered us in through the tickle,
To find a welcoming dock, hot showers and evening of good food, cod with cod, lively conversation and later storytelling in “The Loft”
Next we’re on to Mary’s Harbour, just 10 miles away, we need a few things, then to continue on our way up the beautiful Labrador coast.
June-2-2017 2600 kilometers from our Ontario home to our summer retreat in Newfoundland and Labrador. It’s now our 5th season exploring the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the Island of Newfoundland and coast of Labrador. A season spent sailing out to Corner Brook on the west coast, a second season up to Battle Harbour then winter in Lewisporte, 3rd down to St. John’s and the 4th returning to Lewisporte.
Lewisporte has an excellent marina; when you haul out and keep your boat here you automatically join LYC, Lewisporte Yacht Club. Such a nice group of people here, casual, comfortable, facilities where there’s always something going on and someone to help or just to talk to. Yesterday for Canada Day we had a potluck kitchen party, 25 or so people, everyone brought their favorite dish, from moose to mac n’ cheese, we sat down to eat, chat and enjoy the cool evening air.
Across from the marina yard is Lewsiporte Town Hall, speeches earlier in the day described how proud we are to be be Canadian, how nice it is to live here, how lucky and privileged we are – the cadet band played while excited children milled around on decorated bikes. The weather would not cooperate but it would not dampen spirits either.
We’ve been going non-stop for 3 & 1/2 weeks getting Phanty in shape to sail north, a day to celebrate was certainly called for. We plan to be sailing July, August and September, now we’re both retired, and see how far up the Lab coast we can get – or – we’re not sure, would be fine to just stay here in Notre Dame Bay.
The big bergs are still anchored in the outer bays but most of the pack ice has blown out and been carried away by the current. Just 2 weeks ago we had bergs right in the marina so its’ still early to get sailing. Somehow I have a feeling it will all come together as it should. Jayne’s even found a little time for painting – these ones from Twillingate June – 16th.
Fogo, Twillingate, Moreton’s Harbour, all around the circle and then some.
We took different routes to get to Lewisporte on Newfoundland’s east coast this summer, where we had left Phanty last year. Jayne and a friend took the car and drove out while I waited for my annual vacation to begin, and worked to complete a new patio and drainage system on our 1850’s cottage/house.
Jayne had another motive beside just enjoying the drive and Gigi’s company, we had an unfinished winter cover on board, she packed her heavy sewing machine in “Jules” our green Subaru wagon and they hit the road. The June and early July weather in Newfoundland was marked by some of the the coldest, wettest weather on record. I flew into Gander on July 24th and, how nice, Jayne and Jules were there to pick me up, in the driving rain I fished out my new Goretex foul weather jacket. Gigi having flown home the same day. Torrential rains and high winds finally ended the following day, and Jayne as promised set to work on the cover. We dropped the boat in the water on Monday July 27th. and while Jayne finished our cover I struggled to re-install Phanty’s rebuilt Wilcox Crittenden, Imperial 51 head. I had forgotten how hard it is to route 1 1/2″ hose and force it on hose barbs, a heat gun and skinned knuckles is essential ! With the head installed and pumping faithfully, without leaks we set out for our first sail, out to Moreton’s Harbour on New World Island.
A rollicking good sail under gathering clouds, gusts to 20 knots and slight showers, it really got the cob webs out. We both have state of the art new rain suits and got to test them out, happy to report they are superb at keeping wind and water at bay, and fashionable too! From Moreton’s we tested Yannie – our Yanmar 3GH2E, running over to Twillingate, hugging the shore under Lower Head’s cliffs and passing Devil’s Cove and Horney Head into the inner harbour. That’s me in Phanty’s cockpit, we’re tied beside shrimpers and across from the shrimp plant, Gord the dockmaster made us most welcome and we spent a day exploring and hiking out to Jenkins Cove where Jayne painted and I wandered with my camera.
Another short sail in variable and warm conditions took us to the beautiful-mysterious Change Islands, entering with a severe thunderstorm watch forecast on the VHF, we were first treated to several pounds of fresh cod gifted to us by a friendly local and then fantastic displays of lighting surrounded us on all sides. A relief to be in port, safely tied to the sturdy fishing wharf and the only chore on hand devouring fresh fish and chips. Sun, sun and warmth greeted us the next day and we strolled down the harbour, stopping to meet the Newfoundland ponies in a nearby paddock, they sensed we had apples I think, and became extremely interested in our approach. We walked around the harbour to Peter Porter’s Old Store Museum, where he described the functions of the hundreds of items on display, from harpoons to a working juke box, still stocked and working with Johnny Cash and Hank Snow tunes. The Squid Jiggin Trail, starts right beside Peter’s store. It takes you through tuckamore, quiet coves and out to headlands, vistas of white surf on the near shore reefs, and the broad blue North Atlantic beyond.
Today, if we can force our selves to depart this island paradise we plan to sail 5 miles across to Fogo Island, then down to Seldom Cove, Lumsden Harbour and around Cape Freels into Bonavista Bay. St John’s here we come.
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Fogo, Seldom, Lumsden, Bonavista and Port Union/Catalina
Jayne and Mike hike to Brimstone Head – Fogo Island Newfoundland
We have been too busy this “Newfoundland Circle” to update our web site as much as we would like, since my last entry at Change Islands we have been sailing, hiking, painting, photographing and explored the harbours of Fogo, Seldom, Lumsden, Bonavista and Port Union/Catalina. We’re sort of stuck, by bad weather, in Port Union, and will see tomorrow morning if we can get out and across Trinity Bay. A significant south west wind has been blowing for a few days, kicking up 2-3 meter waves, and of course we want to sail south west.
This has been a fantastic route to sail, the entrance to Fogo Harbour is magnificent, tall headlands surround a keyhole entrance, and of course the dock is near the fishing harbour at the centre of town. We hiked both Fogo Head and Brimstone Head trails, dashing from a thunderstorm once on Brimstone’s summit.
From Fogo a short sail to Seldom, landing in the middle of a thunderstorm. They have a great F.U., Fisherman’s Union museum, complete with original cod liver oil vats of great volume with some oil still dripping out on occasion.
Lumsden’s compact harbour proved very welcoming and adjacent to 10 miles of gray sand beach, friendly horses and much cod brought on the dock for the “food fishery”. Lady Easton came in close astern as Jayne pondered their high bow from Phantasia’s cockpit.
Bonavista must be one of the prettiest places in Canada and the closest to Ireland, in distance and perhaps culturally too. A short animation sequnce shows our landing under sunny skys in 25C. At Bonavista’s floating dock we met some fine sailors from Holyrood near St John’s, together we enjoyed dinner and a great evening of music by Matthew Byrne at the Garrick Theatre Annex.
Wind and waves forced us into wonderful Port Union, an unexpected gem of a harbour, and an unexpected chance to explore Sir William Ford Coaker’s Factory, the birthplace of the F.P.U. – Fisherman’s Protective Union. It’s complete with an incredible collections of circa 1900 wood working machines and a working printing press from the same period. Also note the beautiful and quite rare ships chronometer.
We’re just listening to the wind generator on Phanty’s stern whirring and thinking we may be taking another day to explore Port Union and nearby Catalina.
Bay de Verde
We’re back in Ontario – our summer adventure sailing in Newfoundland now but a happy memory – great late summer and beautiful fall weather here at home has made the transition from sailing adventure to home life easier to take. I just thought I would publish a few last photo galleries before too much time goes by. In my last post we had sailed in difficult conditions, against 20-25 knot SW winds to Port Union/Catalina, and attempted to leave once but turned back. The waves crossing Trinity Bay were just too uncomfortable and progress too slow. That worked out ok, giving us an excellent chance to explore Port Union and take the dinghy over to Catalina, a few miles away. With SW winds still hovering in the 20-25 knot range we powered past the light house that marks the passage to and from Port Union/Catalina and “power-stay-sailed”, or “motor sailed” to escape the big square waves built up near shore. Out further in Trinity Bay we encountered fog but managed a direct course towards Bacalieu Tickle about 20 miles away. We hove-to, backing the staysail against the rudder and centering the main to enjoy hot soup Jayne had prepared before we departed. We’ve found it best to fill wide mouth thermos bottles while at shore and not light the stove in rough conditions unless we have to.
There are no longer human residents of Bacalieu Island which lies a couple of miles off the upper Avalon Peninsula, but the island is a refuge for sea birds and the tickle for marine life, whales & dolphins etc. The wind subsides in the tickles shelter and we tacked around Bay de Verde head into the pocket harbour of Bay de Verde, joining another sail boat at the floating dock, among dozens of shrimpers. In late August the shrimp season is in full swing, with many boats unloading their fresh catch at the plant across the harbour. If you walk over and take the stairs up to the office they’ll send someone to fetch a bag of fresh shrimp from the plant below, I think it was 5$ or 8$ dollars. Above the town a steep walk leads around the bay to Lazy Rock where I snapped the obligatory picture of Jayne holding the rock up, we had our packed lunch and rested, Jayne made a painting while I snapped pictures, before walking back many kilometers under the hot sun. Back in town I stopped to photograph the last remaining piece of stage – once the entire inner harbour was covered by acres of stages, used to dry and salt cod, residents would pass under them on their way to boats laying to bow and stern anchors in the harbour. Long before the breakwater was built. There is an excellent museum in “Blandon House” high on the hill above where Phanty sat at the dock, its filled with photos and objects that describe life in old days as well as new interests such as wild life in the “tickle” at Bacalieu.
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Cape St Francis
The forecast was for north east winds, 15-20 knots the following day; exactly what we had been waiting for. We planned an early morning departure from Bay de Verde, and crossing of Conception Bay, to round Capt St. Francis, sailing about 160 degrees over 20 miles. From there we would parallel the coast for another 20 miles and turn sharply into St. John’s harbour, marked by Signal Hill’s Cabot Tower on its’ north side.
The forecast was perfectly accurate, and allowed us an easy, fast, downwind sail across Conception Bay. A lull in the wind fooled us into launching the spinnaker which quickly overpowered the boat; after a few exhilarating minutes we doused it quickly. The coast south of St. Francis is marked by magnificent rock faces, under brilliant sun Phanty bounced across the steel blue ocean, making for one of the best sails of the season. Cabot Tower gives the hidden entrance to St. John’s harbour away and as we turned in we called the port authority, requesting clearance to enter. With no commercial traffic in or out bound we passed between North and South Head, leaving Fort Amherst to port and under the towering cliffs that line The Narrows on starboard, into the inner harbour. It’s a bustling place – a row of giant ships that service the offshore oil rigs take up much of the wharf, further in small cruise and tour boats are mixed with working vessels, barges etc. Opposite, on the harbours eastern side the Canadian Coast Guard base is sited and also the commercial fishing harbour. We sought refuge in the far south western corner, behind a large fishing vessel and across from the Oceanex Terminal – we were here – we had sailed into another major Canadian port – St. John’. Jayne and I beamed at one another – and then set to work making fast to the massive tire covered wharf, from where we would explore St. John’s for the next several days.
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St John’s
With Phanty bumping gently (red & yellow circle) against the enormous truck tires that line the wharf in St. John’s inner harbour, we set out to explore this unique city. Having sailed in under Cabot Tower we felt we had to hike out and inspect it – from the tower there promised to be a fantastic vue of the city and harbour too. The walk along St John’s waterfront is a delight – the friendly tour boat operator down the dock from us advised us where to eat and hear some music, visiting sailboats from Gaspe and Norway, the lumbering oil rig vessels in for maintenance and taking on stores. We always find working habours like St. John’s the most interesting, their immediate connection to the lives and lively hoods of those they serve, provide so much that yacht harbours just can’t. Someone had told us that the walk to Cabot Tower could be done in 45 minutes, they must have long legs and not make any stops. We took the better part of the day, but did not hurry, taking time to inspect the St. Michael’s print gallery and studio – Queens Wharf, park and the adjacent memorial garden, then along Water Street to Battery Road. Once we passed through the quaint houses of the Battery the real fun begins, the trail hugs the cliffs we had sailed past the day before, then climbs up and up towards Signal Hill. Jayne stopped to paint, pondering the view towards Quidi Vidi to the north while a waited patiently – enjoying the view and sunshine.
We spent several days just wandering St. John’s – provisioning – chatting with friendly locals, enjoying the uniqueness of Newfoundland’s capital. Gale and Renee, friends we had made last year hiking in Gros Morne stopped by and took us on a quick tour to Cape Spear and Petty Harbour. I spent a morning wandering by myself, enjoying photographing the wonderfully painted houses. Jayne caught up with her artist friend Christine Koch, who was hanging a show at “The Rooms” gallery. After 4 wonderful days in the city, SW winds were forecast, we new it was time to sail back up and around Cape St. Francis. Phanty’s winter home this year would be in Conception Bay’s Long Pond, at Royal Newfoundland Yacht Club.
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Long Pond
After waiting until 9 am for the St. John’s Harbour master to come unlock our power pedestal, we had planned an early 7 am departure but forgot to tell them, the days sail would take us up the east coast, around Cape St. Francis and into Conception Bay. A fine blustery, sunny day with the SW wind fair until the turn into Conception, making the last 20 miles into the bay a beat, into the by then, setting sun. It’s not fair, by the last days of the trip – we’d been on the water for 3 weeks solid by then – we’ve tuned into the boat, wind and waves, a beat of 20 miles poses no problems.
Too bad we didn’t have time to explore Conception. We’ve made several new sailing friends in Holyrood at the head of the bay, we’d like to visit, and there are numerous ports on the western shore to explore, Carbonear, Harbour Grace, Bay Roberts, all will have to wait until next year.
We had arranged with Royal Newfoundland Yacht Club for haul out and storage this season. They have an excellent facility in Conception Bay’s Long Pond, complete with bar and restaurant. We arrived during their annual Race Week and the club was buzzing with activity. Our neighbors at the dock, Eddy and Sara, took time to greet and make us most welcome even though they were busy competing.
The haulout crew take a couple of days locating jack stands and we scheduled a morning de-masting and travel-lift out, boats must be stored in the RNYC yard without masts. It all goes without a hitch, their crew are experts, and the addition of a electric/hydraulic mast crane at the dock makes for an easy mast lift. Having the mast off will allow us to do some rigging inspections and perhaps replacements in the spring – new uppers, back & forestay as well as lowers are recommended after many years of coastal sailing in salt & fresh water.
The area around the club is idyllic for walking and nearby shops provide most of the bits and pieces needed for winterizing as well as food.
Jayne has expertly constructed a vestigial cover for Phanty that we put over the dodger frame, once the canvas is removed, and pull tight to the sides and stern, lacing it with many small lines. It looks great, and will help keep the rain and snow off the companion way and cockpit.
We booked a spot on the afternoon sailing from Argentia to North Sydney, its about a 14 hour sail, for the following day and drove a couple of hours down to the ferry dock. Unfortunately we left it too late to get a stateroom and wound up snoozing in the “Casino” on the way across – oh well next time we’ll know.
The Atlantic Vision is a marvelous ship, fast, quiet and comfortable – it was a windy, foggy night to cross and as I stood on deck in the wee hours of the morning looking at the white caps, I could not help but be happy Jayne and I were not out in Phanty. As the crow flys its about 270 nautical miles to Sydney, the ferry punched into the head wind and seas with little effort, what in Phanty it could take us several days of hard sailing, perhaps one day we’ll give it a try.
We’ll be at the Toronto and Vancouver Boat Shows in January 2016 to talk about this years trip – hope to see you there – show times and details will be on our site and facebook page soon.
My friend Gigi and I left Cobourg on July 14 with a car laden with boat supplies and gear. It’s a beautiful drive out which we made in 7 days although an extra couple would have allowed for a little beach time enroute. We made almost daily stops for painting though.
Stops enroute: L’Islet, Rimouski, Shediac, North Sydney, Corner Brook, Rocky Harbour (2 nights) and Lewisporte. We left high summer and arrived for Juluary (July/January). It was 7 degrees and included torrential rain and much wind.
I drove to Gander (45 min’s) to meet Mike. Air Canada over-sold the flight so it was delayed and we arrived back in Lewisporte around 3:00am. No moose on the road thankfully.
Gigi and I did encounter 3 moose between Deer Lake and Lewisporte. First just grazing by the highway but near Grand Falls-Windsor a cow moose came up right beside us and crossed the highway behind us. Her calf got frightened and ran back to edge of the forest…so one on each side of the highway. I could see traffic slowing in rear-view mirror but either the cow was going to join the calf or the calf was going to make it across…hopefully safely for both cars and moose.
Whales, icebergs and UNESCO World Heritage sites are all on the agenda for our cruise in Newfoundland and Labrador
Byron at Bay of Islands Yacht Club, Corner Brook has just sent us this photo.
He writes: Winter in Corner Brook is extreme this year………. Lots of snow and now very cold -22 this morning. See attached photo of your baby.
Too much snow for the solar panels to be working and lots of build up on deck but she looks nice and sound.
You can see the anchor chain let out onto the ground. It’s a great way to clean the salt off the chain and allow the anchor locker to dry out. With this much cold the interior of the boat can get nice and dry. This year we added a garboard drain so water coming down the mast doesn’t build up in the bilge so she should be really nice when we get back in July.
Jayne and I are getting very excited about this summers sailing in Newfoundland and Labrador – just got a bundle of CHS charts and sailing directions from our friend Ross at nauticalmind.com as well as the latest ATL01 BSB charts on CD. We use a laptop chartplotter interfaced to the GPS, Radar and Autopilot – and us of course. The paper charts are always nice to have to keep an hour by hour plot or for use in the cockpit.
This year we also have a great new Vesper 8000 AIS – http://www.vespermarine.com/transponders/xb8000-ais-transponder.html/
and an iPad air running Navionics. The Vesper creates a local wifi network and all of our on-board devices can access AIS and other information through it, even Jayne’s Mac Book Pro !
We plan to sail North from Phanty’s over winter site in Corner Brook on Newfoundland’s West Coast to Neddy Harbour, and hike the 7 hrs up to Gros Morne? From there it’s North, perhaps as far as Red Bay or Battle Harbour on the Labrador coast then South to St. Anthony – my Mom and Sister Jennifer are there right now – visiting the place of Jennifer’s birth. Just spoke to them this morning, it’s a bit cool there still with some ice still in the harbour.
Posted the complete video from last years sail down the St Lawrence to Quebec and all the way out to Newfoundland – it plays for about 80 minutes and gives you a quick look at all the stops on that 1500 NM route, nauticalmind.com have DVD’s if you’d like to see it on the big screen in full HD
Mike
10 and a half busy months have passed since we sailed down the St. Lawrence and crossed the gulf to Newfoundland. We flew into Deer Lake from Ontario on the 13th and took a cab the 55 km into Corner Brook.
We’ve booked a room at the Garden Hill Inn – under the excellent management of Bill and Carrie Dennis. From the inn it’s just 8 km to Allen’s Cove where Phantasia our Niagara 35 is stored.
Corner Brook on beautiful Humber Arm is a fun and friendly place with excellent services, we’ve rented a wee Toyota to run around in. The tasks to put Phanty together again are many:
Cleaning !!!
Laundry !!!
De-moulding boats woodwork !!!
Install new galley taps
Install garbord drain
Repack the stuffing box
Install our repaired Renai water heater
Launch
Provision
Sorry Phanty, no time to wax the topsides this year, I think its the first time in 14 years we have not.
We did have time to enjoy an Iceberg beer, or two, made with 25,000 year old water, as Jayne points out, along with some excellent “Newfound Sushie”
Arrived at Eastern Head, Bonne Bay, in 50 knot katabatic winds yesterday, that stripped “green hat” from Jayne’s head, alas hat is lost but we’ve arrived safely. Fantastic sail down from Bay of Islands, 20-25 knots winds behind and dolphins racing under and around Phantasia. We’re anchored in Neddy Harbour (behind Mike’s left shoulder), at the moment on the wifi at Norris Point, after a day hiking to the “Lookout”, see the picture, if it comes through. Next stop is Cow Head, we hear they have a great theatre and resturant, as well as as good harbour there. Then Port Saunders, St. Barbe and across to the Labrador side and Red Bay. Will post from the next wifi, best to all.
m&j
Green hat has not been seen again but a replacement has been found.
From our anchorage at Neddy Harbour we took the dingy ashore and tied beside a local boat owned by Reg, with his pal Morris and son Owen. We got some fresh cod from the guys as it is open season. There is no commercial fishery but individuals can take 5 fish or 15 per boat. Everyone is out on the water.
We met Renne and Gail while hiking and will have people to visit when we are in St. John’s next summer.
Also stopped into the studio of artist Christine Koch, who summers in Woody Point but has her main studio in St. John’s,
http://www.christinekoch.com/index1.html
But amazingly she remembered meeting me when I visited St. John’s about 20 years ago! We had a great visit.
Still getting my painting legs but here’s a sample.
Gros Morne.
Hi all, boat is running like a clock, we had a great sail up from Bonne Bay, the north flowing inshore current gave us an extra knot and we arrived by 1300. We’re just at Shallow Bay Motel for dinner and checking email, updating the site and downloading the paper on their wifi. Tomorrow’s forecast is for light southwest winds and we’ll move onto Port Saunders. We have the AIS and new radio working, a bit of reading up to do on both, the sound from the Icom is superb, still need to install the cockpit remote.
best, m
Wonderfully calm when we crossed from St Barbe NL to Red Bay Labrador, many boats fishing capelin, puffins and dolphins also fishing capelin. The previous days sail up from Port Saunders was opposite with winds to 30 knots and some exciting 3 meter waves crossing Ingornichoix Bay. We are docked here in Red Bay at their town dock, several fishing boats for company the first night and several local people stopping to visit as well as a nice couple from Massachusetts.
We hiked the lookout and whale bone trails yesterday as well as visiting Penny Island by dinghy. There are two Basque whaling schooner wrecks found in the harbour and today we’ll visit the museum describing them and that fishery. Tomorrow we’ll sail north 60 miles to Battle Harbour then south towards St Anthony, light SW winds are forecast for several days.
Magnificent, exhilarating sail up from Red Bay to Battle Harbour, winds lights SW to start, which built to a steady 20-25 by late afternoon. By 1000 we were spotting icebergs along the Straight of Belle Ilse western shore. Just outside Battle Hrb, beyond the jagged reef there are half a dozen or more huge bergs slowly sailing down the strait.
When we arrived at the circuitous north entrance to west of Great Caribou Island we took a break to gather our bearings and then thread Phanty into the inner harbour. The restored settlement is a delight of hand hewn buildings that speak of the regions history.
After a quiet night at the dock we spent August 1st exploring rugged Battle Island, the pictures in the gallery are:
Icebergs in the Straight of Belle Isl, purple wild flowers, ripening cloud berries, the memorial to the 1973 Beaver floatplane crash, the berg turns over, Jayne’s berg painting, ice from the berg and scotch with berg ice. Cheers !
We’ll spend today Saturday here then sail on to Noddy Hrb near L’anse aux Meadows Newfoundland tomorrow – nice SW winds are forecast.
There has been lots of painting opportunities but not so many chances to get them uploaded. Most days we have been at anchor or in very small places (think dial-up) so now we are in St. Anthony at the library using their connection.
From Bonne Bay (Gros Morne) to Port Saunders and St Barbe, then Labrador (Red Bay and Battle Harbour) and back to Newfoundland at L’Anse aux Meadows, I’ve had my paint box and brushes out. Some of the paintings were done from the boat on a very calm day going from St Barbe, NFLD to Red Bay, Labrador but most have been done during walks and hikes.
The fair winds and strong current that swept us north to Battle Harbour turned against us as we headed south, across the Straight of Belle Isle and back to Newfoundland and it’s Great Northern Penninsula. There is a convenient and secure anchorage at Noddy Bay where we left Phanty and walked 4 kilometres over to the L’Anse aux Meadows Viking site. An interesting tour by Parks Canada’s guide after which Jayne stopped to paint while I rested up for the long walk back to the boat. Many people were in the meadows picking Bake Apples or Cloudberries and fortunatly a small market on the road provided us with potato chips. Back on the ship I spun a “Roberta’s” Brooklyn pizza which we devoured to the last crust. The sail down the East coast from Noddy Bay was dramatic – winds to 20 knots on the bow and some nice graceful rollers coming in from the big blue Atlantic. At Cape St Anthony we were greated by an iceberg and actually cleared the point without tacking tacking, again. We sailed 35 miles to get less than 20 as the crow fly’s.
Just updating the site, reading email and downloading the paper from St Anthony public library, after lunch at “Jungle Jim’s and food shopping this morning. We’ll try and walk up to the old radar site where Dad worked in the 50’s tomorrow. It’s fun telling people that “my sister was born here” and then discussing the old radar site etc.
That’s Phanty at the St Anthony Public Dock with the ex fishing boat “Baffin Sound” behind.
Straight of Belle – L’Anse aux Meadows – St Anthony
After the wild, remote North Coast we are now safely ensconced in beautiful Notre Dame Bay – in the Green Bay section, anchored near Squid Cove, opposite the town of Triton Harbour. Again waiting out strong winds and heavy rain to cease before we move towards Lewisporte, which is only 40 miles from here.
It’s been a fantastic trip down from the North East Coast/St Anthony, I’ve created a web photo gallery to show some of the highlights, click the link to open the gallery that goes with the text below.
We start on the Public Dock in St Anthony, the crew of the tug Kaliutik helped us tie up and loaned us a very long extension cord to help power and charge Phanty. Those tall fishing boat dock are something else to attach to then scale! From there we toured Dr. Grenfell’s House and the excellent museum honoring the work and dedication of him, his wife and the incredible health services they provided on this then so very remote coast. A nice berg was grounded in the outer harbor, seen from behind the Grenfell Home/Museum. The poor bear that drifted into town on an ice flow is forever preserved in a glass case at town hall.
We left St Anthony with a not great forecast of 20+ knots, planning to sail 40 miles down the coast, with higher winds and significant waves encountered, Jayne and I decided to shelter in Maiden Arm, just 20 miles South. We spent 3 days there in a maelstrom of wind and rain – blew so much our small wind generator topped the batteries to full – 490+ amps! The thick muddy bottom of the cove held Phanty very fast and we collected rain water to drink while waiting it out, escaping for a walk on the beach on the second day.
Down the coast to Englee then up the fiord of Fourche Hr. to anchor under the cliffs at Northeast cove. A day spent wandering among the sad ruins of the last whaling station to operate, closed in 1971, in Newfoundland. The large tanks held whale oil and the winches were used to haul the carcasses of the poor creatures into bays for carving. Exiting the inlet, fog set in for part of the crossing to La Scie, where we were welcomed to the first floating dock since leaving Corner Brook on July 18th. We celebrate with a dockside banquet and sunlit view of the Scie (Saw) hills surrounding the harbor and town.
Leaving La Scie we struggled against some adverse winds as far as Bishops Rock off of magnificent Cape St. John where the wind faired and we enjoyed our first sail under spinnaker of this year’s trip.
The last group of pictures are of entering the pocket cove at Nippers Hr. It’s quite an amazing place, historic wooden churches, friendly fishermen gave us fresh cod fillets, hiking trails and another easy to access floating dock, “The Lion” rock (and berries), and two of Jayne’s painting at Noble’s Cove near Nippers. Jayne prepared a delicious moose stew from meat given to us by a fisherman at La Scie Marine, thanks Rex !
Sun is coming out a bit now and the boats swung round to point west – a good time to get ashore – up to Fudge’s Restaurant and make this post, also must call Lewisporte Marina and book a time to haulout next week.
Just a 3 minute intro to our latest DVD, Newfoundland Circle Part 2.
We plan to set sail on Canada Day, 1-July-2013, from our home in Cobourg on Lake Ontario, for The Bay Of Islands on Newfoundlands West Coast.
Following our 2006 route down the St Lawrence to Montreal, Quebec City and Tadoussac. We’ll then continue along the rivers north shore to Baie-Comeau, Sept-Iles and Mingan, crossing to Newfoundland on an overnight sail from Natashquan. It’s more or less 1400 miles of sailing and we have 60 days to reach Bay of Islands. Phantasia our Niagara 35 sloop will be hauled out and stored there for the winter, then we’ll continue on next summer to circumnavigate Newfoundland.
Interesting to note the contemporary chart for Bay of Islands, below, is based on a British Admiralty Chart surveyed 1880-81. Also some interesting place names like “Blow me down”
Chart New
We’ve finally departed for Newfoundland
Only got as far as Kerr Bay last night and Collins Bay today where we are going to purchase from Marine Outfitters, and install, 4 brand new Trojan T145 6 volt deep cycle batteries. Sadly our now 13 year old Surettes with 38000 hours on them are giving us trouble – they seem to drain very quickly and over the weekend over charged and boiled dry – the battery temperature hitting 107 F ! From what I’ve been able to gather this may be a symptom of a bad cell or cells. Couldn’t have picked a better place to do the replacement, Dave Wilby from Marine Outfitters is going to deliver the new Trojans right to the dock here in Collins Bay.
St Lawrence Seaway – Montreal – Longueuil
Jayne feeding the ducks at Real Bouvier Marina – Longueuil, Quebec.
Battled our way down the Seaway with a few minor mishaps and some delays to enjoy a couple of wonderful relaxing days on the South Shore, at Longeuil, across the river from Old Montreal. Longueil is a great stop – easy access to shops and restaurants – found the best Charcuterie imaginable. Explored the quite streets lined with tall trees and beautiful classic homes taking some time to un-wind after the hectic trip down the river.
Watch some of the action, Eisenhower Lock, “entering” Old Montreal, and then changing our mind to Longeuil.
Sailing Into Quebec City
The 70 plus mile trip down the river from Sorel to Quebec went smoothly – although by late in the day we weren’t sure we would make it into Bassin Louise before the 18 foot tide began to flood. We just slipped into the city in the late afternoon, through the lock that guards Basin Louise and got docked. Enjoyed a latish supper at the Marina’s “Riviera” patio, with the view of old Quebec beyond. Starting at 10 PM there is a fantastic Norman McLaren light and sound show projected on the grain elevators adjacent to the marina, a magical end to this very long day. Tomorrow the Vieux Port Farmers market and walking the winding streets, enjoying the fantastic old world architecture of Vieux Quebec.
View from the Riviera
Wandering the streets of Vieux Quebec
New watercolours
While we’re at anchorage I usually take some time to do a few paintings. I’ve uploaded a few (in the Watercolours section) from yesterday done at our anchorage in the Sorel Islands.
Quebec City to Cap a l’Aigle – with some new watercolours
I made a number of new paintings during our long day yesterday. Left Quebec City around 9:00 and got into Cap a l’Aigle (the eagle) around 7:30. Mostly a day of motoring but with a light SW so we were able to do some wing-0n-wing for a couple of hours. Then the wind died and switched to SE…on the nose.
Top speed we saw was 12kn, our usual top being about 7kn…the rest being tide and current. However by the time we got close to Cap l’Aigle the tide had turned and we were making between 3 and 4kn over the ground.
Wind continues to be SE, forecast is for 10-15 but a couple heading downriver went out and returned saying that it was 20-25 in the river. Wind against current plus tide = rough ride. I’m voting to wait to go to Tadoussac tomorrow.
Belugas
Anse St Jean – LAT 48 Deg 14″ LNG 70 Deg 10″
Sailing from Cap a l’aigle into the Saguenay St Lawrence Marine Park we encountered thick fog passing the Prince Light, making for a few tense moments. We had to wait for the flooding tide at 5:30 PM to enter and once we got a mile up into the Saguenay River the fog departed and we were engulfed in a pod of beluga whales. By 10:00 pm, 2200 hrs, we’d sailed 27 miles up to Anse St. Jean, tying up at their welcoming club Nautique. A lovely town, complete with covered bridge and spring water gushing from a tap in the middle of town. We are just about to sail another 6-7 miles up the river to Baie Etirnite where we’ll spend the night on a mooring. Planning to exit the Saguenay tomorrow and perhaps stop at Bergeronne and then cross to the south shore at Parc du Bic.
Watercolours – Saguenay River
I’ve updated the watercolours page so it is now with the slideshow and thumbnails styling. New paintings added from Quebec City to Tadoussac and up the Saguenay Fiord. Here’s a couple of samples.
Marina Rimouski
We crossed the St Lawrence from Grande Bergeronne to Rimouski today, departed at 1130 on the rising tide with a 15 knot wind behind, sun and blue sky. Our first full day sailing since leaving Cobourg. Marina Rimouski is a wonderful spot, an interesting mix of sail and working fishing boats. We had dinner at the marinas restaurant with our new friend Kurt, he has sailed single handed here all the way from Minnesota! On to Matane, perhaps tomorrow or we’ll take a day off to explore Rimouski.
Just docked at Marina Rimouski
View out to the docks – they have an excellent restaurant
North Shore paintings
We’ve been out of wireless reach for almost a week but now a couple of days in Havre Sainte Pierre…for water, charge batteries, groceries and socializing.
First paintings are from approaching Sept Iles when we crossed back to north side of the St Lawrence. A day there and then a long motor sail to the village of Mingan in beautiful weather. We had thought of stopping part way but glad we didn’t because went wind east (on the nose) and very “maritime”. Spent 3 days in rain/fog on mooring at Ile Quary but went ashore every day and walked the entire perimeter. Last 3 paintings are ones done between bouts of rain…carried whole kit wrapped in plastic.
Greetings From The Mingan Archipelago
We are spending two days docked in Havre St Pierre, the largest Harbour in Mingan, exploring the town and doing some provisioning. We sailed 100 miles from Sept Isle to Mingan Town at the mouth of the mighty Mingan River on July 28th, taking about 15-16 hours to complete that leg in wonderfully calm and sunny conditions. The Village of Longue Pointe De Mingan sits near the mouth of the river.
The Village of Longue-Pointe-De-Mingan
From the anchorage at Mingan town we sailed about 10 miles east and took a Parks Canada mooring at Isle Quarry for three days, hiking first 1.5 km, then 4 km and finally 10km on the third day, around the western end of the island, I have a terrible blister on my left heal to prove it. Crossing the islands interior you cross a spruce bog intricate with tiny lichens, mosses and carnivorous plants, these amazing monoliths sit on the south shore.
The Monoliths at Anse De Erosion, Isle Quarry Mingan
After a great sail out past Isle Niapiskau to Isle Fantome and Isle Firmin we entered Havre St Pierre accompanied by a whale and several dolphins. Seeing as Havre St Pierre is “downtown” Mingan we treated ourselves to dinner out. Tomorrow the plan is to sail east to Isle St. Genevieve and from there to Baie Johan Beetz, Natashquan and then Coacoachou, from where we’ll cross 100 miles to Bay of Islands, Newfoundland. Bon Apetite !
Mike at the Prominade, Havre St Pierre
Bonjour From Baie Johan Beetz
We sailed from Havre St Pierre on Sunday to the eastern archipelago and from there to the small community of Baie Johan Beetz, at the mouth of the Piashti river.
Tomorrow we’ll sail 45 miles further east to Natashquan and from there we’ll cross the Esquiman Channel to Bay of Islands NFL.
Having a great time, this area is very rugged but quite beautiful. We have salmon trout from the local depanneur for dinner.
The boat is backed into the inside of the fishing boat pier and so well protected from the wind the wind generator won’t turn.
Bye for now, m&j
Well Blow Me Down – We’re In Newfoundland !
The North Coast of Quebec is a beautiful rugged place, rocky, lonely and wind swept. In Natashquan Harbour we hunted out a spot to anchor in behind some small bare islands, out of the wind and waves. It turned out to be the perfect spot to shelter from southerly winds. As the sun set we enjoyed views of the stark, low, red granite hills, stunted trees and fishing boats lined up at the dock across the bay.
Little Red House
View from Havre Canadien Anchorage
We wanted to go ashore and explore the town, there is an interesting cultural centre that re-creates a supply store of yesteryear. The mouth of the Natashquan River is near by and leading to it are mile after mile of sand and pounding surf. With a favorable forecast of light south east to south winds for the next 24 – 48 hours, we thought it wise to depart immediately, on the 175 sail across the Esquiman Channel to Newfoundland. The weather here can turn into a bear, as we would find out.
Mike & Jayne Far Away At Sea
With the wind blowing a perfect close reach and “pulpo” our autopilot happily steering through the long, cloudy day and into the long moonless night we had time to relax. We took turns sleeping and reading inside the boat, when not keeping watch. Did not see another craft once away from the Jacques Cartier shipping lanes. From far out at sea you get glimpses of the towering mountains that line Newfoundland’s west coast, and then suddenly we were there, the entrance to Bay of Islands.
Approaching The Bay of Islands Newfoundland
Detail of Guernsey Island
Once inside the bay it’s just a few miles to Woods Island Harbour, reported to be one Newfoundland’s best anchorages. We moored Phantasia and collapsed into much needed sleep and rest for 24 hours, then moved onto the nearby Bay Of Islands Yacht Club, out station dock, to explore the island. The light SE – South winds we crossed in were replaced by first strong SE then very strong SW winds of 45 knots, that kept us happily sheltered in the harbour for 2 days. We are now at the Bay of Islands Yacht Club 3 miles from downtown Corner Brook and contemplating a trip out to Goose Arm, in the Bay of Islands for a few days.
Jayne Painting 2000 Foot “Blow Me Down” Mountain
The waves built and built until it became impossible to make the narrow exit from Woods Island safely
Waves Building On Puffin Island
Looking down Humber Arm towards Corner Brook with “Blow Me Down” in the background
The View From Woods Island
A 2 minute look at the crossing and entrance to the Bay of Islands, complete with whales !
Blown away by Blow Me Down
We arrived Friday morning after a wonderful 28 hours sail, sun rising over the incredible entrance to Bay of Islands, NFLD and greeted by large fin whale and her calf…here’s some first impressions. So incredibly different to Cote Nord, only 175 miles away!
Woods Island Harbour – Departure
Once the wind and waves had begun to subside we had to depart idyllic Woods Island Harbour for Corner Brook. A yacht from BOIYC, Whisper, with Byron and family aboard, caught us as we powered out of the narrow entrance, and set the stay sail for the 12 mile run down to Pleasant Cove, the Bay of Islands Yacht Club main station. We had our Yanmar 3JH2E revved up to 3000 RPM, the max. Sailing under only jib and stay sail down Humber Arm we saw speeds of 7.5 and even 8 knots, a new record for Phanty.
Woods Island Departure 1
Woods Island Departure 2
Woods Island Departure 3
Woods Island Departure 4
Woods Island Departure 5
Woods Island Departure 6
Thanks Whisper for the great pics !
Woods Island Harbour – Departure
Our summer adventure is almost complete, Phanty sits ashore as we build a cradle and prepare for the long winter ahead. Thanks Keith and everyone a Bay of Islands Yacht Club for your expert assistance with many difficult tasks as well as your excellent hospitality.
Lark Harbour
After charging up our batteries and supplies in Corner Brook we took 10 days to explore the Bay of Islands, a fantastic day sailing in light off wind conditions brought us 30 miles to Goose Arm and it’s North West Cove anchorage.
The cove I think could rightly be called a hurricane hole, thick black mud covers the bottom and bobbing at anchor we listened to forecasts of 30 knots for locations only miles away. Look for the tiny white object in the lower right, that’s Phanty.
We must have hiked 30 km over the 6 days we were anchored in Goose Arm, climbed then descended 1000 meters into the spruce, balsam fir, tamarack and birch covered hills. At the head of the arm a fast flowing, clear and cool river filled with salmon and trout empties.
From Goose we sailed back out to the Bay of Islands, passing west of Woods Islands, Vesuvius and Man of War shoals, with 25 knots on the starboard beam to enter beautiful Lark Harbour. Anchoring in the back harbour, although not recommended, due to possibly strong south westerly and katabatic winds, worked out fine, we laid out both our CQR 45 then CQR 35, on 200 feet of chain, but the wind never got above 10-15 knots.
From there it’s a short trip ashore to explore the town, lunch at Marlaine’s “Tide Watcher Cafe” can’t be missed as well as hiking in “Blow Me Down” Provincal Park across the bay. We spent a final day walking 3 km across to Little Port to admire there rows of bright orange Little Port Dories.
Jayne stopped to paint a view of the bog and cliffs and made a fine new friend in Mr Sheppard who regaled us with a tale of ghost dories at dawn and how in the old days the snow banks were so high you could touch the power lines and ice flows 30 feet thick would trap ships trying to enter Corner Brook for weeks at a time. He said he had fished for 40 years and hated every minute of it.
We wished him gales of wind and lots of snow before departing for a final sail down Humber Arm and back to The Bay Of Islands Yacht Club, which we’ve now joined as full members.