Apr 302013
 
We’ve just finished editing and then presented our latest, and final DVD in the Down East Circle series, at the Toronto International Boat Show. Part 6 covers sailing from Nova Scotia, 300 nautical miles across the Gulf of Maine to Boston. We then visit Newport Rhode Island, sail down Long Island Sound to New York City and return to Lake Ontario via the Hudson River and Erie & Oswego Canals. About 1200 miles total distance covered in 38 days

Nova Scotia, New England, New York & The Hudson River

We depart July 15th by train from Cobourg to Montreal then Halifax, and on to St. Margarets Bay, where Phantasia, our Niagara 35 has been stored since last summer’s trip along Nova Scotia’s South Shore. This will be (may be) the final segment of Down East Circle (DEC) as we plan to bring the boat home across the Gulf of Maine to New England, up Long Island Sound to New York City then the Hudson River & Erie Barge Canal back to Lake Ontario. The proposed course looks like this.
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Apr 302013
 
We’re here in Mahone Bay Nova Scotia, just off the Chester Yacht Club, this classic sloop tugs at the mooring beside us, it’s now day 11 of, Down East Circle – Part 5, Sailing Nova Scotia’s South Shore.

A Classic Sloop of the Chester Yacht Club, Mahone Bay

16-July-2010, Day 1 – Departed Cobourg by Via Rail for the 30 hour trip to Halifax. The train ride was fun, relaxing, good food and an interesting group of passengers to meet, from Australians to Texans, many friendly people from the Maritimes make up the staff.

A night on the town in Halifax, although the train was late arriving we managed to make our dinner reservation at The Press Gang and enjoyed Bill Stephenson’s trio while dining. It’s the last night of the Halifax Jazz Fest.

Phantasia, On The Hard, Shining Waters Marina, St. Margarets Bay, Nova Scotia
Rented a car in Halifax and drove about 30 kilometers out to St Margarets Bay and Shining Waters Marina where the boat has been stored since last fall. We’ll need the car for a few days running around to provision the boat and to pick my father up who is flying in from Vancouver on Tuesday. That’s our Niagara 35 Phantasia II with our wee neighbour MegaHurtz.

Spent the day cleaning and provisioning the boat then went out for dinner at Shining Waters excellent restaurant. Jayne and Dad managed to get a big smile from the server as we enjoyed the sun set and view of St Margarets Bay. Boats of all descriptions sailing everywhere.

Race Boats Returning in St Margarets Bay
After struggling to re-rig Phantasia, as we seem to have forgotten how the furlers work, we depart on a brief 10 nm. shakedown cruise to anchor in St. Margarets Bay off of Troop Island. It’s a fine spot with good holding and protection from all sides. A family of Osprey Eagles nesting on the island keep us entertained catching fish and calling to one another. Jayne paints her first picture of the trip.

Jayne's First Painting Of The Trip
A perfect 6 hour sail from St. Margarets over to Mahone Bay in light to moderate conditions, we sail right up to the entrance to Deep Cove under spinnaker and enjoy a quiet night at anchor in this mile deep, fjord like bay. At dusk the mosquitoes drive us into putting on socks and citronella and we move inside to enjoy dinner in the saloon.

Entering Mahone Bay Under Spinnaker

Dad At The Helm, St Margarets Bay, Nova Scotia

Our first break from the sun and 25 to 30 degree temperatures we’ve enjoyed since arriving in Nova Scotia. After a hearty breakfast of home made soda bread and eggs we depart under a rainy sky and motor 6 miles from Deep Cove across Mahone Bay to Chester. The Chester Yacht Club provide us with a mooring as we dodge race boats participating in a weekend event. There is a beautiful fleet of classic Bluenose sloops as well as other mixed vessels racing. Dinner at the “Rope Locker”, just a 5 minute dinghy ride away is superb, Jayne and I both have fresh halibut and dad tries the seafood pasta, lobster, scallops, mussels and fish, a litre of Annapolis wine to wash it down.

Next Stop Chester, Mahone Bay
From Chester Yacht Club we sailed across Mahone Bay to Lunenburg Yacht Club on Herman’s Island. It’s an idyllic retreat with many boats on moorings as well as some well protected dock space, they’ve even got fuel. Dinner out at the club and a quiet evening at the dock capped a perfect days sail.

Sailing from LYC to Lunenburg itself was exciting, with fair winds in the 15-20 knot range we managed to almost, but not quite, get Phantasia’s rail in the water. Flying our small 8 oz. 100% jib it’s probably impossible to get the rail in.

Phantasia, Rail Down, Nearing Big Duck Island in 15-20 Knots

Phantasia On a Yacht Shop Mooring, Lunenburg Harbour

Once in Lunenburg Harbour we grabbed one of the few available Yacht Shop moorings in the busy front harbour. We have front row seats at an evening classic yacht race, as well as a fantastic view of Lunenburg’s historic waterfront, Adams & Knickle buildings and all. There are sailboats here from all over; Victoria B.C., two boats that have crossed the Atlantic from the U.K and a sloop from Australia complete with small children and a kayak. Lunenburg is definitely one of the most interesting, historic ports we’ve sailed into. Dinner out at Trattoria de la Nonna to celibrate our arrival after planning this trip for so many years. Dad is catching his plane back to Vancouver in a couple of days and Jayne and I will spend a week exploring Lunenburg and area. After the Lunenburg Folk Arts Festival a friend we know from Ontario takes us out on an day trip in her car to the nearby town of Petite Riviere and “The Painted Saltbox”.

Sale Is Made,The Lunenburg Folk Arts Festival

We’ve now sailed down to the La Have Islands near the mouth of the La Have River, passing near Shag Rock reef to anchor off of Spectacle Island. We spent a couple of very windy days, 20-25 knots with driving rain, fog and thunderstorms, enjoying the weathers display and the solitude of the anchorage. West Spectacle Island is great for short hikes, exploring and bird watching. The island is covered with unusual shaped and iron rich rock formations, tidal pools and marshes and a long abandoned house. Our anchorages location is, LATITUDE 44 15 – LONGITUDE 64 20. A welcome forecast promises clearing weather tomorrow.

After a few days exploring in the La Have Islands we moved into the “hub”, the La Have Bakery, passing between Kraut Point where Covey Island Boatworks is situated and Fort Point, to enter the lower La Have River. The Bakery is a lively, fun spot and with everything from fresh pizzas to fresh eggs there is not a better dock to be tied to in Nova Scotia, all for the reasonable price of 50 cents per foot. You have to conserve water though since along the La Have most water is drawn from artesian wells. The drinking water in our tank could be bottled it’s so cool and tasty. Housed in the same building as the bakery is also a crafts co-op selling many products: instruments, carvings, glass, leather, that the local artisans and artists make. The Dory Shop on the pier side builds both boats and furniture. There is a gallery space and a skateboard builder on the 2 upper floors.

The La Have Bakery Welcomes Us to La Have

With time on our hands and no plan to progress further down the South Shore we spent a lazy week sailing up and down river to and from Bridgewater which lies at the head of the navigable portion of the La Have.  It’s a much different climate, inland by 20-30 miles, the temperature soared to over 30 degrees, swimming becomes a daily necessity. Back in the La Have islands, which lie right on the Atlantic, it can be as much as 10-15 degrees cooler and often damp with fog while Bridgewater enjoys hot summer temperatures. Bridgewater has excellent provisioning and services, access to downtown and the mall is a just short walk from the harbour. Sadly there is no official town marina and as the area is suffering some economic downturn it seems like one would be a welcome asset to the community. There are many graceful old clapboard and shingle homes along it’s hilly maple lined streets.

Phantasia At Dusk, The La Have River

Down river just before the bakery and ferry dock is the La Have Yacht Club which seems to have the perfect blend of climates of up and downriver, cool and hot. We came in on race night with a dozen boats in a race against the diminishing evening breeze and out going tide as well as one another. It’s a friendly club situated in Pernette Cove, they have fuel, water and a small bar and restaurant.
We’ve just spent another day walking and exploring “La Have” after returning to the bakery, there is a beautiful walk up into the forested hills to the old school, song birds fill the trees and the view out to the Atlantic is magnificent. Enjoying the walk so much we wind up in Dublin Shore 6 kilometers away.  We must now begin to wind our way back towards Mahone Bay and then St. Margarets to haul out the boat and prepare for the coming winter. We still have to see the town of Mahone Bay and who knows what else along the way back …

Apr 302013
 
Sailing from Gaspe, Quebec to New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island and Nova Scotia’s Eastern Shore in our Niagara 35 sloop Phantasia II. We’ll be following the green line on the chart below.

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Back to Gaspe by train, we have a room complete with meals aboard Via Rail’s “Chaleur” for the 24 journey from our home in Cobourg on Lake Ontario. Beautiful rural scenery glides by our window, and this relaxed mode of travel is the perfect way to get in the right frame of mind for sailing.

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We have booked one night at La Maison William Wakeham in Gaspe to allow us time to get Phantasia dewinterized before moving aboard. Proprietor and Chef Desmond Ogden gives us a preview of the lunch menu, we’ll be back for dinner too! Desmond specializes in “Market Cuisine”, expertly preparing local seafood and produce. His bouillabaisse is fantastic!

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Marina Gaspe it adjacent to the train station and it’s only a short walk to Gaspe’s shops and restaurants. We wash, wax and prepare the boat for launch, tomorrow morning first thing there is a suitable high tide. We’ll spend a couple of nights at the dock and then go for a short sail past Rock Perce to l’Anse-a-beufils, it’s about 30 miles, just to make sure everything is working ok.

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Not much sailing as we pass Perce in the fog but our Yanmar 38 horse diesel gets a good workout.

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It’s a surprise to find the usually quiet harbour filled with boats racing to Gaspe, they are celebrating the 475 anniversary of Jacques Cartier’s arrival. We raft up.

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With the sun for company, we set out across Baie des Chaleur, on the 100 nm overnight sail to Miramichi, New Brunswick.

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We plan to anchor behind a ring of sandy islands that have formed in the mouth of the Miramichi River.

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The current is so strong I have to tie a life preserver to the boat, so I won’t be swept away. At dusk & dawn the boat is surrounded by leaping salmon.

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Our idyllic summer anchorage turns into 25-30 knot winds overnight. With Phantasia’s CQR 45 anchor and 160 feet of chain out we’re uncomfortable but in no danger, after 12 hours of this we’re both getting kind of sea sick! The wind, tide and river current combine to lay us on our “beam ends”. I put up my lee cloth to keep from being rolled out of my bunk!

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Jayne makes a painting that captures the subtle beauty of this amazing place. A passing fisherman stops to chat, he can’t believe we spent last night at anchor, “here” !

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On to Buctouche, about 40 nm down Northumberland Straight. Prince Edward Island is now clearly in view to port. Buctouche has a great marina and it’s just a short walk to town. Where the marina stands was once Sawmill point owned by the Irving family.

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20 km away by bike through forest trails is the Irving Eco-Centre, La Dune de Bouctouche. A spruce planked boardwalk stretches out over the sand, it’s the perfect place to spend an afternoon walking, and painting.

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Next stop Summerside Yacht Club on Prince Edward Island, a 40 nm reach across Northumberland Straight under spinnaker. Summerside is easily accessible by foot and the yacht club has a waterfront restaurant.

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On to Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, 45 nautical miles down Northumberland Straight, past PEI’s famous farmland, and under the Confederation bridge.

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Downtown Charlottetown is a relaxing stroll from the marina. A tour of the provincial capital building, Province House, is a must.slide0027_image097 slide0027_image095

There are many options for dining, just a few blocks from the marina.

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Back across Northumberland to our first ports in Nova Scotia, Pictou and the Caribou Harbour anchorage and then a glorious sail around Cape George, to tiny Ballantynes Cove, Nova Scotia. The largest Bluefin Tuna caught by rod was taken here. These magnificent creatures are officially on the endangered list due to over fishing, largely on the European side of the Atlantic.

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Passing through the Canso Canal lock is simple after tackling the seaway, there is fuel at Port Hawkesbury, Cape Breton, just the other side. Once through the canal, we’re treated to a blustery sail down Lennox Passage, and anchor at Haddock Harbour behind Isle Madame.The open Atlantic is just the other side of the Island.

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And then we get our first taste of that cold, wet Atlantic fog we’ve heard so much about.slide0036_image121 slide0036_image123 slide0036_image125 slide0036_image127

A blustery day takes us across Chedabucto Bay, to Canso, our first port on Nova Scotia’s Eastern Shore. The entrance to Canso Harbour is tricky, there are about 20 marks and lights to guide you when entering from the north.

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Colourful frame & shingled houses line Canso’s streets.  Each summer the town hosts the Stan Roger’s Folk Festival.  The towns excellent Whitman House museum tells the storey of the local fishing industries glory days. Since the early 1990’s ground fish stocks have declined sharply and Canso’s large fish plants have closed.

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The next several anchorages we’ll enter will all require very careful navigation. We’re on the open Atlantic now paralleling Nova Scotia’s remote Eastern Shore, heading south west towards Halifax. First stop is Whitehead Harbour’s Yankee Cove, 25 nm, partially through thick fog.
There are about 5000 know wrecks on Nova Scotia’s shores.

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The air is fragrant with Balsam Fir and we share the anchorage with only our selves.

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Next it’s 50 nm down to Liscombe Harbour, we choose to anchor up the Liscombe River, near the Lodge.slide0045_image153 slide0046_image157 slide0046_image155

Another 50 nm down the coast to anchor at Popes Harbour puts us whithin a days sail of Halifax.

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Suddenly we’re there, tied up at the foot of Sackville Street in old Halifax. In the middle of Busker Fest.

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A dock away from visiting tall ships like Amistad and across from the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic.

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It’s just a short walk up the hill to St Paul’s, the oldest church in Halifax, and the impenetrable fort, The Citadel.

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Alexander Keith’s, and more than a few good places to eat are also close to the harbour.

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The next, our last port of call this season, is Tantallon, in St Margaret’s Bay, a foggy 45 nm sail, passing Peggy’s Cove.

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We have a few days to haul out and winterize our boat and then it’s time to start planning for next summers trip, down the South Shore to historic Lunenburg and the La Have Islands.

Apr 302013
 
August 2008, with our third summer here, we have started to feel like GaspĂ© is our home port. We enjoy this part of Canada so much we’ve decided to linger and explore a bit off the beaten path. Many transient boats we have met stop in Gaspe for provisioning and fuel and move on quickly enroute for the Caribbean. The majority of boats we have seen are owned by Quebecers from Montreal and Quebec who also come out for the summer and explore this region, regularly going to Isles de la Madeleine or the Mingan Archipelago.

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After a couple of days getting provisioned and installing a new furler for the staysail we head out stopping briefly in Anse a Beaufils and then Chandler.

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The Chandler marina building, designed to look like a ship, has excellent facilities including a popular restaurant featuring local specialties, including cod cakes.

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We left Chandler with a forcast of 15-20 knots but saw winds of well over 30 blowing out the Baie des Chaleurs. Once we were in the channel heading up to Caraquet we were badly headed in very shallow and consequently rough water. Landing in Caraquet was a real experience having never been in the harbour before. But about 8 people were on the dock to direct us, have fenders ready and take our lines. It was still blowing over 30 knots and that night we had to gimble the stove while making dinner.

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We just missed the Tintemare, the Acadian parade which is part of the Acadian National celebration, but the Stella Maris was in evidence everywhere. This gentleman specializes in replicas of local buildings, lobster traps and light houses. The fishing fleets were the largest we’d seen since Rivier au Renard.

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We borrowed bicycles from the marina and enjoyed cycling out along the “sentier” through the low dunes and along tidal flats typical of this area.

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Opposite the marina at Bas Caraquet is Caraquet Island. We enjoyed dingy exploring, picking blueberries and watching a family of Osperys, the magificent fish eagle from our anchorage there. Their nests are typically a huge jumble of sticks high up in an old snag, on hydro transformers or specially built platforms.

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After about a week the weather finally seemd to have settled and we crossed back over to Quebec, to the Acadian town of Bonaventure. On our crossing we got out the spinnaker, the shorts and sunblock for the first time. We borrowed bicycles again and continued to seek out the heritage buildings and culture that is so unique to this area.

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IMG_2189Several sailors in Gaspé suggested we go into Anse a Barbe, tucked into a ravine with the train trestle at its head. When we arrived it was low tide and we were really unsure of the turning room in the tiny bay so we decide to continue around the point and go into the small fishing port of Gascons. There is a small floating dock that was fully occupied with local boats so we ended up rafting off a Nordica 30.

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Again the weather went stormy on us as we departed Gascons heading back to Anse a Beaufils. After tacking for 30 miles in 20 knot head winds we took refuge in Grand Riviere, a commercial harbour with no real accomodation for yachts but it was one of the most interesting locations with a great poissonerie within a few minutes walk. Cod came in one day and the outlet was full of shoppers. Lots of the fabulous Aitken Bros. and other varieties of smoked salmon too! A really unpretentious town but with lots of interesting things to see.

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Grand Riviere is home to a new aquaculture center which includes an amazing and inventive undersea park. The center very near the fish plant which has one of the last outdoor areas for natural cod drying. The flakes where the cod is laid out have little cedar tents to protect the fish from the marauding gulls but the day we arrived there was also an elderly man on an ATV busy roaring up and down sending the birds flying off.

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Then we headed back to familiar territory, to Anse a Beaufils, past Percé and into Gaspé Bay where Phanty will spend the winter of 2008/2009 as we plan our next leg of our down east circle.

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Apr 302013
 
In August of 2007 we returned to Gaspe by train, with plans to sail to Les ĂŽles de la Madeleine, a 350 nautical mile round trip out into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The blue line on the chart below.

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From the yard over looking Gaspé Bay we cleaned, painted and waxed then launched Phantasia.

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The town of Gaspe is handy to the marina and excellent for provisioning. It’s just a short walk across the bridge spanning the York River.

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After a spectacular “red sky at night”, we’ll depart in the morning.

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We are bound 30 nm to Fox River, a shakedown cruise to make sure the boats systems are ok. Fox River is an import commercial fishing harbour in the Gaspe and also has an excellent new marina for pleasure craft. Club Nautique Forillon is about to have their official opening celebrations, the whole town is invited.

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Tomorrow we sail towards Rock Perce, Bonaventure Island and l’Anse-a-Beaufils. With dolphins playing in Phantasia’s bow wave and Gannets diving from a stormy sky we set out.

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Leaving Phantasia at nearby Beaufils we spoil our selves with a boat tour to Bonaventure Island, it’s about 5 km offshore from the town of Perce.

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Bonaventure Island Tour

The Gannets are extremely entertaining, visiting their colony on Bonaventure is a bit like I imagine the Galapagos to be. It takes about 60 minutes to walk back from the bird colony, everyone stops to cool their feet!
Nearing the tour boat dock we get another view of the rock.
Perce town has interesting shops and some excellent restaurants.

Back at l’Anse-a-Beaufils we spend the rest of the day relaxing.

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And then set out on the 140 nautical mile trip to Les Iles de la Madeleine.

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We put the lee clothes in Phantasia’s saloon up in case it gets rough. It’ll take about 24 hours to get to the Madeleines.

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As we neared the islands in the wee hours of the morning the GPS decided to quit! Thankfully it came back to life as the sun came up and before the approach to Entrance Island. We plan to spend a night at anchor in Havre Amherst across from the town of La Grave.

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Havre Aubert and La Grave

It’s a fantastic spot! the sky so clear and bright and the salt air refreshing.
With an impending forecast for 30 knots of wind we move onto the dock at La Grave. We are one of only a few visitors from outside the islands. There is a colourful array of fishing boats converted into cruisers.
We spend a day exploring the dunes, bird watching and enjoying the sun. Although it looks like a long way the hike up to Bute de la Croix takes only a few minutes, the 360 view is incredible.

Cap aux Meules, main village of Iles de la Madeleine

We move across the bay 8 miles to Cap Aux Meules, it’s the largest town in the Madeleines, and take a dock at the marina among the well kept lobster fleet. From the marina its just a few blocks up to town, there is a superb bakery and a well stocked chandlery, it helps to know some basic French.

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Across from the marina the weekly cruise ship from Montreal arrives next to the ferry from Souris on Prince Edward Island. The pier is a favorite spot to gather and socialize while fishing for mackarel. A 130 foot motor yacht arrives and the whole town comes down to inspect it.

It’s a hard place to say goodbye to but we must return to Gaspe. Sailing back across the Gulf de Madeleine we’re treated to a nice gale!

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We over night in Anse a Beaufils and the following day finds us rounding Rock Perce under spinnaker.
A fair wind blows us all the way into Gaspe Bay to anchor a final night.

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Tomorrow we haul out and prepare the boat for her long winter nap.
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Apr 302013
 
We started thinking about this trip when we purchased a series of charts from some friends who had sailed an Atlantic circle, so it seemed like years in the planning. Since buying the charts we’ve also upgraded our Niagara 35 for this type of coastal cruising with an Espar heater, hydraulic auto-pilot, Monitor windvane, a new 95% jib, furling staysail and now a liferaft.

August-September 2006 out the St. Lawrence Seaway to Gaspé, Quebec

August 10, 1:00am we leave our dock in Cobourg for an overnight past Prince Edward county towards the Thousand Islands and the St Lawrence River.

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We make our first anchorage at Button Bay on Wolf Island having discovered that the starter battery won’t function requiring us to jump start from the house batteries (we carry jumper cables in our spares. After day one we already have a shopping list. On board we have Mike’s dad, Peter Evans who will travel with us a sfar as Quebec City.

After passing under the Thousand Island bridge we’re in the mighty St. Lawrence and pass the Prescott Coast Guard station.

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We followed the chart, checking each bouy as we passed taking note of the shipping channel so as to avoid freighter traffic. This area is heavily traveled by pleasure boats as well. Our second night we anchored off of the town of Brockville with good holding but a bit rolly.

The next two days take us through the locks; Iroquois followed by Eisenhower and anchorage at Isle St. Regis. Beauharnois Lock leads to the Lachine Rapids where the current gives a boost of 5-6 knots. As we approch Montreal we pass through locks St Lambert and St Catherine. The locks on this section of the seaway have auto-payment by credit card.

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Rather than go against the current to the downtown Montreal we tie up at Club Nautique Longueille where we can get fuel and a new starter battery. The old village of Longueille is only a short walk from the marina and very charming, we enjoy one of the best dinners of the trip.

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Down river we stop at Sorel for fuel, and meet a couple from Belgium and France on their Alubat 40 (seen in photo above). We anchor together in Baie de Isle de Grace.

August 18 – We pass Trois Rivieres as the current builds to a constant 3 knots. Although our guide lists Battiscan as a harbour we hit bottom twice in the entrance and make an anchorage at the edge of the river which is quite wide and shallow here. Next morning we transit the Richelieu Rapids, reaching speeds of more than 10 knots over the ground! Tide begins to become apparant and the rapids are best entered at high tide. Pont Pierre La Porte just ahead…and Quebec City!

The approach to Quebec must be one of the most oustanding sailing experiences. Coming from up river first the Plains of Abraham and Citadel come into view. There is a buzz of river traffic: ferries, freighters and pleasure boats. Coast Guard cutters are tied up just below the Chateau Frontenac, outstanding in its gothic grandeur.

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Buildings of the historic old town crowd right up to the dock. This is the stop I have been looking forward to for years.

To enter the marina you must first wait in a “holding” area for the green light to enter the small lock that separates the marina from the river. This reduces the effect of the 18′ tide here. At slack the gates remain open. The marina is popular and it is advisable to call in advance.

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The history, architecture, restaurants, shopping, all make the city special. The Marché du Vieux Port right near the marina is fabulous for provisioning. We found the Quebecers at the marina very friendly and helpful.

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We spent 3 days in Quebec City enjoying the ambiance and waiting for the 25 kn eastelies to abate. Because of tide and current departure timing becomes very important and we refered frequently to the Cruising Guide. We left QC at 3:30am enroute to Cap l’Aigle.

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This is part of the voyage takes us past beautiful Charlevoix farms, windmills and the building Laurentians. The narrow channel past Isle au Coudres causes the current to accelerate and would be very difficult going against the tide.

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The marina at Cap l’Aigle (the eagle) is well protected and we are made welcome. There is a charming restaurant above the marina office serving fish and Charlevoix specialties.

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Our next destination, the Sagueanay River and Tadoussac also requires close timing since it is almost impossible to enter without the aid of the tide, the current coming out the narrow Sagueanay River channel can reach 7 knots, we depart at 7:00 am. When we get to the Sagueanay we face a 25 knot head wind coming down the river and abandon plans to go upstream to Bay Eternity and instead tie up at the marina in Tadoussac.

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The 400-yead-old village is dominated by the historic red-roofed Hotel Tadoussac resort and is a short walk from the marina.

Next morning, August 24, we dapart at day-break for Parc du Bic, below. As the sun rises we notice some unusual puffs hanging over the water, mid-river. We realize that we are seeing whales blowing, the spouts being back-lit by the sun. There appears to be 3 groups with a couple of whales in each and judging by the height of the blows they must be large. A fin whale suddenly breaches heading across our bow and we watch in fascination as the sickle shaped fin appears again and again. A short time later we have belugas on starboard.

We have a great reach across the river to Bic and anchor on the east side of the point, in Anse l’Orignal, Moose Cove, in fair protection in 20-25 knots.

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We put out lots of chain and use the riding sail.

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The bay, surrounded by steep cliffs, entices us to spend an extra day for some dinghy exploring, hiking and relaxing after several days of early mornings and constant travel. We see numerous seals and water birds, including razorbills and gannets. Time to do some painting.

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Stops in Matane, Sainte-Anne-des-Monts and Grand Valleé. Refueled twice by taking jerry cans to service stations. Along this stretch the coast gets wilder, towns smaller, logging trucks and fishing boats have replaced farms.

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The Cruising Guide to the Down East Circle suggests that Rivierre au Renard (Fox River) has limited facilities for yachts so we are pleasantly surprised to find the recently opened, and almost completed, Club Nautique de Forillon.

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The town itself has basic facilities, an ATM but no bank, groceries, hardware, excellent chandlery and a restaurant at the Caribou Inn. Rivierre au Renard is home a large, deep-water, fishing fleet whose main catch seems to be shrimp and crab. There are 2 poisonneries on the dock and you can even buy a paper cup of fresh cooked shrimp for $1. Rain keeps us stationary for a couple of days as we wait for perfect weather to round Cap Gaspé, it gives us plenty of time to relax and explore this lovely town.

The cape is a crooked, gnarled finger pointing out in the Gulf and to Newfoundland with steep folded cliffs crowned by a beautiful red-roofed lighthouse. We enjoy the best sail of the entire voyage under spinnaker and the “twins”, our 100% jib and staysail.

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We tack back and forth along land’s end, around the cape and down into GaspĂ© Bay trying to make this day last as long as possible.
It’s a Friday evening when we set anchor behind Sandy Point, enjoy a glass of wine and watch the local sailors going for an evening sail.

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We spend our last couple of days exploring the bay by dinghy and Gaspe town on foot.
The bay was a whaling station in the mid-19th century and home to a naval base during WW2 when the entrance was curtained by anti-sub material.

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September 6 at almost high-tide Phantasia is hauled out by the marina’s interesting, locally built travel-lift and gently positioned on a custom cradle the dock-master and assistant build from spruce 6×6 lumber.

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