Mar 022024
 

2-March-2024

Wow it seems like we just arrived home and its almost time to depart ! We were so busy last season – 2023 – we only managed to up date the web site once – so here’s an overview of where we sailed in 2023, I’m just working on some YouTube stuff now, and an outline of our sail plan for 2024 and 2025 !

Best Sailing – Mike & Jayne

Cruising Scotland’s Outer Hebrides, Orkney, Fair Isle & Shetland

We flew from YYZ to Edinburgh Scotland (see https://gonesailing.finnevans.ca/highland-spring/) in early April 2023, spending a few days in the Scottish capital, taking in the sites, museums, restaurants etc. of that wonderful old city, and then travelled by train to Oban, in Scotland’s West Highlands, where we’d left our boat, Loon’s Lace, in the fall of 2022. We spent several weeks in Oban, in a wee rented apartment, working on our boat and waiting for the weather to improve, April in northern Scotland is a bit cool and damp! New Solar panels & controllers, new windlass motor and controller, Jayne updated our watchkeeper shelter, painting and waxing. We replaced the seals on our Volvo sail drive with the help of the mechanic at the Kerrera Marina.

Spring days turned into early summer and we were finally ready to go sailing, leaving Kerrera for Tobermory near Point Ardnamurchin, and then to the beautiful Island of Coll, where we spent a few days decompressing. We sailed west and crossed The Sea of The Hebrides, anchoring off the white sands of Vatersay, to swim in 9C water and beach comb for a few sunny days. After a wee sail of only 5 miles we tied up at Castlebay Marina, on the Isle of Barra. Kisimul Castle was unfortunaly closed but the town is nice and we enjoyed fine Hebridean dining at the hotel, with our new Norwegian sailing friends, Colin and Randi. Sailing north up the island chain there are peaceful anchorages on South and North Uist, with wild ponies, and quiet walks along rugged cliff lined shores.

After an idyllic crossing of The Minch, we anchored off Dunvegan Castle on The Isle of Skye, and took the dinghy ashore to tour the castle, for 800 years the home of Clan MacLeod. From there we sailed west back accross the Little Minch to Berneray in The Sound of Harris, West Beach is not to be missed, again the water was a little cold for swimming. Sailing north we visited the Shiant Islands, where there are 100,000 nesting sea birds, and then to Stornoway, the Hebridean capital, and road tripped on the Islands of Harris and Lewis. Rounding Scotland’s Cape Wrath in the company of new Scottish friends Alex and Kathy, we anchored in Lochs Laxford and then Erribol, and from there crossed to Orkney’s Hoy Sound, docking at Stromness. Beautiful farms, Neolithic sites & the 13th century St Magnus Cathedral are some visitor highlights.

Sailing from Pierowall Harbour on Westray Island, at the north end of the Orkney chain we crossed 50 miles east to Fair Isle’s North Haven, where there is just enough room for a few boats to share the ferry dock. Nice walking, there are no cars, we searched for handmade “Fair Isle” sweaters, and visited some of the largest puffin rookeries in the Atlantic, and then sailed 50 miles north to Shetland’s bustling Lerwick Harbour.

A North Sea Crossing & Cruising Norway’s Southwest Coast: Sognefjord to Oslo

In Lerwick Harbour on Mainland Shetland, we rafted up with visiting boats from Denmark, Sweden, Norway and Germany. Just 200 miles of the fearsome North Sea separated us from Norway’s West coast, and we picked what looked like an easy weather window to make the crossing.

Once checked in with Norwegian Customs and Immigration at Bergen, the “Fjord Capital”, we were free to explore Norway’s second largest city, and plan our summer cruise along their magnificent southwest coast.

Traversing Sognefjord nearly 100 miles inland, we sailed up Fjaerland Fjord to hike the Mundal Valley and view amazing Boyabreen Glacier, dock next to the cruise ships at Vic and visit their “Viking” Hopperstad Stave Church. From Flam on Aurlandsfjord we hiked to Brekkefossen, rode the Flamsbana railway and then sailed Naerofjord, to anchor under the towering rock faces at Holmaviki. Sailing south we visited Bergen a second time, to re-provision and maintain our boat, before entering Hardanger Fjord, to hike up to the glacier park at Sundal.

With snow forecast and the long summer days growing shorter, we sailed south to Skudeneshavn, rounding Cape Lindesnes to Kristiansand, Arendal, Jomfruland, and found Loon’s Lace a winter home at Wector Yachts in Stathelle, a few hours by car south of Oslo. On our way home we spent a few days in Oslo, its a wonderful city to walk in, and enjoy the museums, shops and restaurants surrounding its historic waterfront.

Spring/Summer 2024 – Norway – Sweden – Finland …

We’ve just driven up to Ottawa to visit the Swedish Embassy, and apply for 6 months extended stay visas. Our sail plan this season is to cross from Stathelle, on the south coast of Norway to Sweden’s west coast. We’ll visit Henan, & Najad Yachts of course!, Gothenburg, Malmo, and then sail into the Baltic, to see dear old Stockholm, and possibly Helsinki, in Finland. On our way south from there the plan is to visit Copenhagen in Denmark, then take the Kiel Canal west to the North Sea, Netherlands and UK. From the UK we’ll make our way to Portimao on Portugal’s Algarve for the winter! Our crew friend Matthew may join us for the crossing from UK to Spain ?? we’ll see…

Well that’s the plan anyway !

Some pix from 2023 – The Outer Hebrides and Norway

Apr 272023
 

Anxious to get sailing we departed Ontario in late March, snow still in our backyard, bound for Edinburgh and then Oban in Scotland’s west highland, our wee boat Loon’s Lace had spent the winter of 22/23 there.

Edinburgh is fascinating, lovely to walk, filled with history, and it was even sunny for a day! We rented a flat at the top of 65 stone stairs, overlooking the old Bank of Scotland, and carried our too much luggage up. Three days to wander and enjoy The National Gallery of Scotland, The National Museum of Scotland and the Scottish National Portrait gallery, with lots of restaurants and pleasant park walks in between.

A few hours north west from Edinburgh by train is Oban, the west highlands capital. Caledonia MacBrayne ferries, Oban whiskey, seafood, book stores, outdoor equipment, supermarkets and hardware, the perfect place to get our boat ready. We had a wee cottage rented for two weeks while we made the boat liveable, the early spring weather of the Highlands hovered below 10C with pretty much daily rain and wind storms, it was still snowing at home!

The boat was just 15 minutes away across Oban Bay at Kerrera Marina. From our rented cottage on Breadalbane street we organized our spring boat projects and walked the few blocks each morning to catch the water taxi, ChiChi the drivers wee doggie snuggling with Jayne. Painting, waxing, cleaning and reassembling the interior must be done, we’d pried ceiling panels, the floor and salon table out last fall, fixing leaks and cleaning water tanks etc. This year a major refit of the boats sail drive seals was needed but luckily the mechanics at Kerrera would help with that.

Days of back and forth saw much progress under sunny skies, in rain gales and one morning a dusting of fresh snow on the hills of Mull. Jayne judiciously worked to restore our lovely Najad’s twin red water line stripes, with red car wax while I polished the white top sides and helped Julian remove and reinstall the Volvo drive, I’d removed the propeller in the fall and had to paint and reinstall it too. The outboard had been left for service in the fall and it was nice to find it ready and waiting in the Kerrera shop along with our sails which had been cleaned and serviced over the winter by Owen Sails, they have a convenient sail drop box right at the marina. Between boat works we had time to enjoy our Kerrera Island’s paradise, few if any cars, farms, dogs, sheep, coos and an ancient castle 4 miles walk south.

Sadly our home built Solar arch had let go of three 100 watt panels, over the winters storms, and they needed to be replaced, we hunted for new ones to fit, hunched over our laptop in the evenings, watching CBC news by YouTube and following other sailing channels as they dealt with life aboard and abroad.

Jayne caught a nasty chill waxing the boat during a gale, and developed an even nastier cough, after 2 solid weeks of early mornings, long days, and tired trips home across the bay, she sadly missed the launch, but happily Loon was back in the water, looking very nice and shiny new with updated waterproof seals around the sail drive unit too.

Today we’re just in Oban for the day, Jayne has seen the doctor, probably a viral cough that may take another few weeks to cure, she’s got a prescription to help, and Scotland’s excellent national health service, as temporary residents did not charge us anything!

The 1415 water taxi will take us home to Kerrera in just a few minutes, after an excellent lunch at The Lorne in Oban. Back to boat work tomorrow, our new Solar panels should arrive soon, I’ve almost finished installing the new windless motor, Jayne has been modifying the Watchkeeper dodger shelter, it protects our pilothouse from the highland rain & wind, I’ve been up the mast to check the rig and install a new flag halyard…soon we’ll be sailing to the Outer Hebrides, Orkney, Shetland & Norway…

Azores, Ireland, Scotland

 Comments Off on Azores, Ireland, Scotland
Feb 142023
 
Jura

We’ve been doing some sailing, unfortunately not updating the web site as much as we should, but here goes, our latest news! We crossed from the Azores to Ireland in June/July of 2022 and spent the summer and fall cruising Ireland and Scotland! Lots of details in the videos I’ll list below, please like and subscribe ! All the best sailing for everyone in the coming season, hope to meet up with you along the way, Mike & Jayne Cobourg, Ontario February 2023

Loon’s Lace our Najad 405 is at Kerrera Marina since October of 2022, a lovely setting just across the bay from Oban, in the Scottish West Highlands, we are home in Ontario, saving our UK tourist visas so we will have lots of time to get sailing in the spring/summer of 2023. As Canadians we are allowed 180 days out of 360, we used about 60 days in the fall of 2022 so that should leave us lots of time to sail from Kerrera/Oban to the Outer Hebrides, Orkney and Shetland, from Shetland we plan to cross to Norway and spend the rest of our 2023 summer season cruising Scandinavia. The plan at the moment is to overwinter in South England for 2023/2024 of then start sailing towards Spain, Portugal, Madeira and the Canaries, from there we plan to cross to St Vincent in the Caribbean. Maybe home to the Great Lakes from there or perhaps Panama and wind up out in Vancouver, that’s been a long term dream for both of us!

Right now we’re busy packing, flights are booked and we’ll be in Edinburgh on March 26, spend a few days there in an Airbnb doing some touristy things then return to Oban by bus probably. We have an Airbnb booked in Oban for the first 2 weeks in April while we get Loon’ Lace ready to launch, and will probably be in that immediate area for at least a month until the weather gets a wee bit better. Lots of little things to do on the boat, Jayne has a new “Boat” sewing machine and will update our “Watchkeeper” shelter while I clean and wax the hull, touch up the bottom paint and tinker with the Solar panels & batteries etc.

As I mentioned we have 5 new videos on our YouTube site, hopefully they’re not too bad, we worked a lot at getting some good footage and correcting as much as possible with edits here at our home studio. I’ll list them from new to less new, here they are:

Sailing Scotland’s West Highlands EPISODE 14

From Ballymastocker Bay on Lough Swilly in the Republic of Ireland Jayne & Mike prepare to round Malin Head and cross the Irish Sea to Scotland. Cruising the Scottish west highlands into the fall they explore, Islay, Jura, Crinan, Mull and Oban and then find a home for Loons Lace at Kerrera Marina, where they make ready to haulout for the season.

Sailing Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way Part 3 EPISODE 13

Sailing east from Killybegs on Donegal Bay we take a mooring at Teelin Harbour then anchor at Arranmore Islands Rosillion Bay, from there its a short sail to Gola Roads with a view of fantastic Mt Errigal. Sailing north to Lough Swilly we avoid some poor weather then walk the sands of Ballymastocker Bay at Port Salon, sadly our last anchorage in Ireland, from here we set sail up and around Malin Head for the Highlands of Scotland.

Sailing Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way Part 2 EPISODE 12

Just back to our boat after a road trip to Dublin we sail north from Galway Bay to wonderful Inishbofin where we hike, paint and photograph, then wrap a crab trap anchor around our prop on the way to Little Killary, forcing us to sail into anchor. Sailing north from Inishturk we round magnificent Achill Head to anchor at Inishkea. Relaxing in pastoral Broadhaven Bay we wait for good weather to sail up Donegal Bay.

Sailing Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way Part 1 EPISODE 11

In Part 1 of Sailing Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way we’ve just arrived in the Republic of Ireland, having sailed 1300 miles from Praia da Vitoria in the Azores. With fine summer weather and fair winds we setout to discover some of Dingle’s secrets and then set sail for the Blasket Islands, Brandon Bay, Inishmore, Galway and Dublin.

Offshore Passage Azores to Ireland – EPISODE 10

A North Atlantic Crossing – Azores to Ireland In Part 3 of “Loons Lace Atlantic Circle” Mike & Jayne arrive in Praia da Vitoria Azores from where they set out on a 200 mile shakedown to Sao Miguel, for some site seeing, hiking and to enjoy Ponta Delgada, the Azores capital. With new crew member Matthew aboard and a favorable weather forecast the crew of three set out to sail 1100 miles across the North Atlantic to Dingle Ireland.

Mar 112022
 
Velas Harbour – Sao Jorge

In the summer of 2021 we sailed from Fogo, Newfoundland on July 14th, reaching Horta in the Azores July 25th, after a fairly easy 11 day crossing (click to open Azores Crossing post). As Canadian citizens we were granted 90 day tourist visas to visit the 9 islands that make up the Azores archipelago. Almost 4 weeks went by exploring Faial and Horta, we spent our remaining time sailing, anchoring, walking and very much enjoying the other central chain islands of: Pico, Sao Jorge and Terceira, with a brief trip to Sao Miguel flying home (click to open Azores Archipelago pdf link).

This season, In 2022 our plan is to visit the other 5 islands of the Azores archipelago: Graciosa, Flores, Corvo, Sao Miguel (by boat this time) and Santa Maria, or as many as we can get to before sailing to Ireland midsummer.

After 12 hours in transit from YYZ-TER we’re sitting in our rental suite in Praia, waiting for the wind and rain to die down, so we can get down to the marina and uncover loon, and get some work done.

It’s a bit early in the season to be here but we’ve got three leisurely weeks to get our boat ready and just enjoy Praia!

Happy sailing,

Mike & Jayne

Praia Da Vitória, Azores March 11 2022

Nov 072019
 

 

 

This is the year, 2019, we would close our circumnavigation of Newfoundland that we begun on Phantasia in 2013.

Departing from Cobourg on Lake Ontario we sailed east through our familiar cruising grounds of eastern Lake Ontario to the 1000 Islands, and then made our third transit of the St Lawrence Seaway. It seemed more difficult than our two previous trips, perhaps we’re just getting older. It’s still great fun to break free from the lakes and find your self anchoring near downtown Montreal and then running the rapids to Quebec City.

Once clear of the lock at Quebec City’s Basin Louise it’s clear sailing. Under spinnaker we’d visit Tadoussac in the company of belugas, humpback and minke whales then cross to Bic, Rimouski, Matane and St Anne Des Monts on the St Lawrence south shore. 

The St Lawrence current, and summer westerlies would move us quickly from Riviere au Renard into Gaspe, where we stopped to provision and enjoy the local colour. Our 220 nautical miles crossing of the Gulf of Madeleine to Port Aux Basques Newfoundland proved to be challenging, as we entered Cabot Strait followed by squall after squall.

Newfoundland’s South Coast is sparsely populated and extends east from Port Aux Basques to Cape Race, steep coastal cliffs are punctuated by deep inlets, lined with creeks and rivers. We planned to visit as many of it’s famous harbours as we could. Isle A Morts, Garia Bay, Rose Blanche, Grand Bruit, Cinq Cerf, Burgeo, Grey River, Francois and Hare Bay.

From Hare Bay we crossed to St Pierre, France to enjoy French food, wine and culture before sailing back to beautiful Little St Lawrence Harbour on Newfoundland’s Burin Peninsula .

We tied up with the fishing fleet in St Brides Harbour on the Avalon Peninsula to investigate rugged Cape St Mary, and the sea bird colony there. Rounding Cape Race at the south east corner of Newfoundland, in dense fog, we hurry up to Fermeuse then into St John’s just ahead of hurricane Dorian. 

After riding out the storm at Royal Newfoundland Yacht Club in Conception Bay we’d visit Bay de Verde, Bonavista, Lumsden, Seldom, Change & Exploits Islands before bringing the boat into welcoming Lewisporte Marina to haulout for the winter of 2019/2020. 

In the upcoming 2021 (due to Newfoundland’s Covid 19 lock down we’re not sailing this year) season we may sail Loon’s Lace across the Atlantic, that’s the plan, we’ll have to see if we can get organized and make it happen.

And we will be doing several days of “Sailing Newfoundland’s South Coast” presentations at the 2020 Toronto Boat Show. As soon as we have the schedule we’ll publish it here, hope to see you there !

Best Sailing,

Mike & Jayne

 

Oct 032017
 

It will be Phantasia’s 40th birthday in 2018 and to celebrate we’re giving her 3 weeks in the “spa” here at Lewisporte Marina this fall. We’ve bounced her off every dock between Little Current and New York City so she certainly has earned it.

First there is a complete disgorging of 17 seasons gear (we became her third owners in 2000), stuff and what is this thing from below decks and cleansing every nook and cranny, hot simple green followed by a light bleach rub down.  After that it’s deck sanding, course (80) grit, thorough vacuuming, deck wipe down and taping off the Awl grip.

Then we roll on new non-skid decking. We’ve decided to go with Kiwigrip, white: primer, main coat then touch ups, we think its looking fantastic, after 17 seasons of hard sailing (and core repairs) this needed doing.

   

We’ve had persistent, mysterious leaks, both port and starboard, one over the galley and one over the head, for many seasons. After removing, re-bedding and re-installing everything on the coach roof and side decks, the leaks kept leaking, this years fix is to gently pry off the wooden “eyebrows”. Strips of 12 feet by 1″ by 5/8″ teak added just below the turn of the cabin top as decoration. A dozen screws in each, at least 2 of which were leaking. We heat-gunned them for several days then gently broke them off, unfortunately they had been installed with 5200 which just would not let go. Her new “eyebrows” will be coffee tinted Kiwigrip rolled on with a smooth foam roller, cockpit seats will be the same coffee colour.

Next comes the wax – Jean & Lisa of Coast Yacht Services buffed Phanty’s top sides to a gleaming, mirror finish, visitors to the shop thought we’d painted the hull not the deck!

Also while in the shop, it’s a very reasonable 35$ per day, we’re going to repair a piece of the galley floor and have already replaced a galley portlight as well as rebedded the hatch lens over the head…. and sanded the grab rails… and…

Maybe by next Tuesday we’ll be out of the shop and putting Phanty away for a long winter nap.

If you want to sail the Newfoundland and Labrador coast, in safety and comfort (no slipping on deck and no leaks below) all these and more tasks must be crossed off the list.

 

Aug 172017
 

A sunny day in south/central Labrador is something of intense beauty, the sky seems so clear you’re looking into a lost world – if it wasn’t for the buzzing of helicopters to and from the small airport across the bay. We’ve had an excellent “sail” up the coast from Notre Dame, St Anthony, Mary’s Harbour, although to be honest a lot of “motor sailing” has taken place. But that’s to be expected when you’re new to a coast as ruggged as Labrador’s. At any rate hurricane Gert spawned of the Carolina coast has churned up an immense area of the North Atlantic so we’ve stayed put here in Cartwright for a few days. It’s a rugged little town with friendly people so what could be nicer, at the moment we’re securely tied to the French yacht Taravana beside a few fishing boats. Huge transformers are being unloaded on the main dock, brought across from England and bound for one of the immense hydroelectric projects here in Labrador. There is a fish plant who will loan laundry and showers, a few stores, one with a bakery, fuel and water and a lovely sense of freedom – reminds me of the BC coast back in the 70’s, before it became so exclusive.

We sail back south Saturday: Grady Harbour, Black Tickle, Hawke Harbour, Lords Arm, Occasional and back to Mary’s Harbour then St Anthony – something like that, have to see how the weather is.

Best,

Mike & Jayne

Phantasia II

53° 42′ 7.6″ N, 57° 1′ 36.2″ W

Jul 312017
 

We had to leave our friends on Showa and Lola from Lewisporte/LYC in idyllic Notre Dame Bay, our plan was to sail north, up Newfoundland’s Great Northern Peninsula to Labrador.

We’ve covered some water and visited some ports since departing from the “flotilla”  

La Scie, Great Harbour Deep, Bide Arm, St. Anthony, Noddy Bay, Henley Harbour, Battle Harbour

It’s been a challenge and fun too – a bit lonely at first after the social scene and company of LYC, but it’s so nice to be back in Battle Harbour. Nice food in their new dock side restaurant and Gary Green’s storytelling in the loft last night was accompanied by Ruth’s wonderful hooked wall hangings.

Its 3 years to the day that we were here in 2014, on our way from Bay of Islands/Corner Brook sailing up The Straight of Belle Isle, leaving Cape Norman to starboard, Red Bay, Battle Hrb. and down to Notre Dame/Lewisporte. We missed rounding Cape Bauld that year, opting to exit by the tickle at Quirpoon.

This season a quiet passage around Cape St. John took us to La Scie, where Roger and Joanne from LYC surprised us with a visit, they were making there way round to Isle aux Morts. From there the solitude of Great Harbour Deep on Great Northern Peninsula provided our harbour out alone at anchor,

 And then 30 knots entering Canada Bay to hide up Bide Arm.

Wonderful small town there of the same name, the gracious locals helped us tie to their fish wharf then a kind woman brought Sunday supper to the boat, thinking we looked hungry. Lots of capelin and whales and dolphins up the arm as we left.

After re-provisioning we left St. Anthony,

With a light SW behind us, which had become 20 knots by the time we reached Cape Bauld, Newfoundland’s North East Cape. As that brisk cool-heavy air meets the confluence of tide and currents at the cape it kicks up some interesting waves, almost a rip tide. A humpback swam under the boat to add to the excitement. We paralleled the tall/black cliffs of Cape Bauld to Noddy Bay where it was a challenge to anchor, our CQR found mud only after 3 tries.

Wonderful crossing of the Straight of Belle Isle – wind beside us, flat seas our AIS reporting only one freighter outbound on the west lanes, we did not pass closely. 

Chateau Bay surrounded by Castle Islands fantastic black basalt pipes hides Henley Harbour’s wee, lonely and now abandoned settlement.

Behind the town on Barrier Point is the remains of a 1766 English Fort, the star shaped outline still clearly visible with remnants of a stone block house in its centre.

After a friendly early morning visit from a Fish and Wildlife cutter we attempted to depart Henley via American Tickle, only to get be-fuddled by the fog and have to stop and re-think our exit. With thick fog shrouding it a huge berg popped out at us, right on the bow as we had our soup/lunch motor sailing to Battle.

Jayne steered us in through the tickle,

To find a welcoming dock, hot showers and evening of good food, cod with cod, lively conversation and later storytelling in “The Loft”  

Next we’re on to Mary’s Harbour, just 10 miles away, we need a few things, then to continue on our way up the beautiful Labrador coast.

Jul 022017
 

June-2-2017  2600 kilometers from our Ontario home to our summer retreat in Newfoundland and Labrador. It’s now our 5th season exploring the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the Island of Newfoundland and coast of Labrador.  A season spent sailing out to Corner Brook on the west coast, a second season up to Battle Harbour then winter in Lewisporte, 3rd down to St. John’s and the 4th returning to Lewisporte.

Lewisporte has an excellent marina; when you haul out and keep your boat here you automatically join LYC, Lewisporte Yacht Club. Such a nice group of people here, casual, comfortable, facilities where there’s always something going on and someone to help or just to talk to. Yesterday for Canada Day we had a potluck kitchen party, 25 or so people, everyone brought their favorite dish, from moose to mac n’ cheese, we sat down to eat, chat and enjoy the cool evening air.

Across from the marina yard is Lewsiporte Town Hall, speeches earlier in the day described how proud we are to be be Canadian, how nice it is to live here, how lucky and privileged we are – the cadet band played while excited children milled around on decorated bikes. The weather would not cooperate but it would not dampen spirits either.

    

We’ve been going non-stop for 3 & 1/2 weeks getting Phanty in shape to sail north, a day to celebrate was certainly called for. We plan to be sailing July, August and September, now we’re both retired, and see how far up the Lab coast we can get – or – we’re not sure, would be fine to just stay here in Notre Dame Bay. 


The big bergs are still anchored in the outer bays but most of the pack ice has blown out and been carried away by the current. Just 2 weeks ago we had bergs right in the marina so its’ still early to get sailing. Somehow I have a feeling it will all come together as it should. Jayne’s even found a little time for painting – these ones from Twillingate June – 16th.